{ Global ~ Eats}

Global Guest: S.F. Oyster Nerd

2012-01-18T14:12:00.000-08:00

Who are you?

My name is Gregory Michael Babinecz, a.k.a. the S.F. Oyster Nerd.

When and how did this oyster fixation spawn?

After graduating college I moved home for a couple months and got a job at a local fish market near Philadelphia. One of my job responsibilities was to shuck oysters and clams for patrons to take home. It was there where I gained exposure to several different varieties of oysters and shellfish. I next spent 1 1/2 years in Central America working and traveling and realized the food I missed the most were fresh oysters. Upon returning stateside I moved to out west to San Francisco where I won a shucking competition in the fall of 2010 that landed me a part-time job at Waterbar restaurant. I’ve been cracking open oysters a couple times a week ever since.

So what is it you like about these brackish water rocks?

They are the flavor of the land. American palates tend to crave sweet, salt and fat while oysters are much more subtle with flavors and nuances you have to work for. In this era of ketchup, mayo and mustard squirts, oysters are one of last bastions of unadulterated nature.

For the oyster novice, lets talk oyster species.

Your two main species available in the United States are Virginica (east coast) and Gigas (west coast). From these two species we have hundreds of varietals, depending on where they are grown.

In general Virginica oysters tend to be brinier with a stronger mineral finish than Gigas. You can also pick up citrus notes and Umami. Virginica oysters are also a lot easier to shuck and generally prettier to look at.

Gigis oysters are more vegetal than their east coast counterpart. I feel they’re more complex, with anything from watermelon rind to fresh cut grass notes.

The Kumamoto is a third species, and it’s the oyster enthusiasts love to hate. In my opinion the Kumamoto is the Belevedere or Grey Goose of oysters- in a bad way. Many people think it’s the end all be all of oysters, but do you order Chardonnay every single time you go out to eat? As far as flavor profile, the Kumamoto is buttery and creamy with honeydew melon and cucumber notes. All in all a difficult oyster to dislike, yet certainly not the only one to enjoy.

What are your hard and fast oyster eating rules?

First off, always chew your oysters. Would you chug a bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc? No. You would smell it, sip it and savor it. Do the same with your oysters. An oyster has a beginning, middle and end. By merely ‘shooting’ and oysters and swallowing it, you are only getting the flavor of the ‘liquor’ (juice inside the oyster)- which is good in its own right but certainly not the entire experience. If you want to taste your oysters, then eat them straight up or with just a touch of mignonette* or lemon to cut the brine. Also, be adventurous. Try new oysters whenever possible.

* Traditional French style accompaniment to oysters made from champagne, champagne vinegar, diced shallots and cracked peppercorn.

Oyster nutrition?

You’re looking at about 7-10 calories per oyster, with B vitamins and tons of zinc. They’re also fat free.

Do you mind throwing out a few oyster suggestions for the intrepid crudo consumer to seek out?

Certainly.

The Sunken Meadow from the Wellfleet area of Cape Cod. Artisinally grown with a lobster stock finish.

Tomahawk from New York for it’s chewy, ‘snappy’ texture.

The Wild harvested Marion from Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts. Big and bold with earthy black truffle flavors.

Drakes Bay from right out here in West Marin. When they’re good, they’re really good.

Shigoku from Puget sound, Washington. Ultra manicured with a nice brine and sweetgrass finish.

Finally, let’s play oyster word association

Hood Canal.
Mass McDonalds production type sh*t.

Cape Cod.
Delicious.

Long Island.
On the up.

BBQ Oysters.
Gulf oysters.

Cocktail sauce.
Scrotum kick.

Flipped and rinsed oysters.
Swan Oyster Depot.

Thank you S.F. Oyster Nerd.

Stay Bi (valve) Curious.

Macro Series II

2012-01-06T09:11:00.000-08:00

Char + Cheese. Charlie's Coffee Shop. Los Angeles, CA.

Street Scene (Part I- Stockton Street)

2011-11-26T11:00:00.005-08:00

Every so often I'll be breaking down a certain street in a particular hood of the city of San Francisco, highlighting a local dish that earns the stamp of global approval. First up is Stockton Street, particularly the area from Broadway street down to California street. While Grant street sees most of the tourists, Stockton is the undisputed main artery of Chinatown. Locals flood the sidewalks every morning jostling for bok choy, chestnuts and dried scallops. It's a lil' grimy, a bit overwhelming, but after cleaning the soot off your sneakers and regaining composure you can reward yourself with tasty treats for prices so low you'll swear you're still in Chongqing.

One of the most densely populated neighborhoods in the nation. It's a struggle at times.

Fruits and veggies for about half of what you'd pay in other places. Bring your elbow pads.

I told you it's cheap.

Sitting at 1041 Stockton street is New Golden Daisy. A little shop serving up an assortment of noodles, Cantonese-style roasted meats, and most notably- crispy chicken WANGS.

These aren't your typical jumbo, glistening sports bar wings doused in B.B.Q. sauce with a side of ranch. Naw. We're going Asian style with a subtle ginger marination and crisp cornstarch coating. Emphasis on crisp cause many spots won't fry the long wings enough to eradicate F.S.S. (Floppy Skin Syndrome). New Golden Daisy does. Many folks might be turned off by the lukewarm temperature at which these wings are held. Sure, the sanitary conditions might not be top notch in this part of town but you'll be scarfing them down quick enough to avoid any intestinal issues. That really doesn't make much sense but just have a go and try these wings. At around $3.50/lb you'll have money left over for a bottle or two of Maalox.

Stay Nostalgic.

Macro Series I

2011-11-15T09:13:00.006-08:00

Burgundy Truffle.

Stay Exorbitant.

Dinner in October

2011-10-31T12:40:00.008-07:00

Cast Iron fried Lamb burger: Minted Chimichurri, melted Gruyère, roasted red onions, arugula, buttered & toasted acme bun.

Stay Seared.

The Kid's Alive

2011-06-25T14:54:00.008-07:00

Just been on a global hiatus.

This don't mean I ain't partaking in some noteworthy grub session up in the [chilly!] city of San Francisco- even if I'm not taking my SLR with me as much as I should.

Witness Ragazza, a new pizzeria up the street from my spot. Chef/Owner Sharon Ardiana also handles Gialina in Glen Park.

Amatriciana w/ tomato, pancetta, chilies, pecorino and an eggie {$16} and on the right we've got preserved lemon, truffled pecorino and arugula {$15}. Overall a couple of very good pies {I'd put it a tad beneath Pizzaiolo in Oakland}. If you're at the Saturday morning Alemany Farmer's market [ California's first farmer's market established August 12, 1943 ]- pick up some fresh produce for an honest price and seek out Copper Top Ovens. Tom there cooks up a mascarpone, fig and honey creation in his portable brick oven. Get on that.

And get on this:

The cheeseburger from 4505 meats.

Peep Preparation Game.

You ain't hungry? The only problem is actually getting your hands on one. They set up a stall in front of the ferry building on Thursday & Saturday mornings- and invariably sell out right quiCK.

Anyways this grass-fedder is off the hinges. One of those dishes that lives up to the hype. Like Chairman Bao's pork belly bun. A Tender+Crispy pork belly slab alongside pickled daikon. Worth the line.

Some other food trucks are capitalizing on the food truck craze and shelling out sup-par, over priced eats. I gots beef with Senor Sisig's pork tacos. I was excited for Sisig cause I haven't grubbed on the sizzling pork cheek & ear mash-up since 16 in the 'pines circa '09.

First off, Senor Sisig's rendition ain't even sisig. Not even close. It's chunks of pork shoulder with a dusting of generic spices.

'Ohh it's got chilis in it. Must be Asian!'

Please, child.

Second off the tortilla was undercharred- borderline raw style. Third off that Mexi-pino wrap will cost you 3 bucks. Not impressive. Neither was Seoul on Wheels with their bulgogi tacos. Same deal. Lettuce leaves up in there. Really? Over it. Southern Sandwich Co. was dece' bbq from a truck- although I can't say I expect much from SF Q. $2 bucks for a tiny scoop of 'slaw had me boiling over like a pot of Penang-style Laksa. Well, not quite but as my dining partner put it: 'If this food was served up in a non-hyped setting like a food court down in the Excelsior it wouldn't raise an eyebrow.' Wurdage spoken.

O.G. Mexican food has been underwhelming in San Francisco as well. Usual suspects like La Taqueria, El Farolito, El Tonayense {truck}, Taqueria La Cumbre, El Gallo Giro {truck} and La Palma Mexicatessen have all been in the 3.5/5 star range- nothing I'd run back for. I had a lot more luck on my first Annual International Blvd. taco truck crawl across the bay in Oak-Town.

Four of us shucked and jived our way through the hood and grubbed on some tender and fragrant south-of-the-border delights. Best of the bunch came from:

Tacos Guadalajara { 44th / International} - Crisp Carnitas and Al Pastor. Yes, please.

Tacos El Gordo { 42nd / International } - Suadero [brisket/rib cut] and spicy Al Pastor {There's a spit}.

Taqueria Sinaloa (22nd/International) is also worthy of a BART trip. I'll have to make it out east again very soon.

As for a dessert to finish of this update:

These {excellent & unexpected} popover-like sugar donuts were actually the star of the meal at Shanghai Dumpling King (34th/Balboa)- even though we went there for the Xiǎo Lóng Bāo. I'm spoiled I guess. China Happened.

I think I've done my share of shout out / call outs for the day. Next time we'll discuss home-cooked varietals. Posts may have disappeared for a bit but the eatin' just.don't.stop.

Stay near the Bay.

La Ciudad de Angeles

2011-03-15T09:22:00.006-07:00

I'm a loyal follower of Al Pastor, the spit-carved spicy pork originally brought to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants. After arriving the marinade morphed from Yogurt based to ancho and guajillo chiles with pineapple- and Pastor style pork was born. Blessed the day. The city of Angeles has it's own mini-spit culture and I'd heard about a little truck called Tacos Leo carving up happiness nightly on the corner of Venice and La Brea. Charred, tender, full of flavor. Worth the wait, and well worth the $1.

Make your way East towards downtown on Pico Blvd. and you'll find a hotbed of Latin edible delectables. Everything from Guatemalan eateries to Salvadorian pupuserias to illegal roadside tamale venders. La Cevicheria dishes up fresh Guatemalan and Peruvian style Ceviche with Aji Amarillo grown in the owners backyard. I know this cause he came out and yapped it up with us for a good 45 minutes. Give him your time and give the seafood a taste.

Dino's the man. His spicy grilled chicken draws folks from all over the sprawling metro area. As the story goes the Dino brought his grilled chicken recipe over to from Greece many years back. In order to cater to his new clientele he spiced up the marinade and added the uncharacteristic corn tortilla on the side with the grilled bird. Anyways, all you need to know is it's a mean tasty deal. This monster plate of spuds with the chicken and tortillas for something like 6 bones? With an Old Raz tossed green salad you've got enough for two.

Langers. A Los Angeles Institution. Forget New York, some folks say it's the best Pastrami in the States. At first glance the $14 sandwich seems slightly overpriced (even for this type of establishment). Then on second glance I had a second thought: Most people wouldn't think twice about spilling that on a burger. What we have here is massive piles of cured, smoked and steamed brisket that's gone through a process way more time & labor intensive than the grind and grill method for most patties. It's also amazing, so just order and enjoy. The pastrami is tender, smokey and...just right. A couple thin slices of cheese and a bit of thousand island spread to moisten it up between a couple slices of stellar rye bread. One menu oddity: $14.25 for a small salad & $14.75 for a large! Supersize me child!

Here's a short list of my go-to spots from yesteryear in L.A.:

Las Fuentes
Carne Asada Burrito. Incredibly consistent.

Yuca's
Cochinita Pibil.

Roscoe's
Carol C. Special...duh.

Zankou Chicken
Garlic Sauce. Order extra and take it home. Trust.

La Baguette
[ 7245 1/2 Reseda Blvd
Reseda, CA 91335 ]
Before they hit Williamsburg, this was my spot for Bánh Mì. I even wrote an article about this place for my school's magazine - although I spelled them BAHN MI back then!

Loteria Grill
Mingle with the bold and beautiful over at the Grove then get yourself a shredded beef burrito up in here.

Scooby's
Don't waste your time standing in line at Pink's. The dogs and fries at Scooby's are greasy and satisfying.

Mom's BBQ
Get your soul on.

Stay on the hunt.

Global Guest Interview

2011-02-21T10:16:00.015-08:00

Today Los Angeles-based cinematographer Michael Rizzi takes us around his miracle-mile neighborhood, showing us a few of his regular spots for pleasing the palate.

L.A. is definitely one of those beef-cake-between-bun type towns. Everyone has a favorite, whether it be The Counter, Father's Office, Hole in the Wall Burger Joint or Apple Pan, the list goes on for days- kinda like that lovely afternoon 110 traffic. Old Raz (Michael) had told me about a spot that opened a bit ago just up the street from his house serving up crazy-mad tasty ground bovine creations to burger snobs and aspiring hipsters alike. Umami burger has been all over the press for years; time to give it the global examination. Up top we have the Umami burger for $11, which the chef pimps out with all sorts of drool-inducing goodies like oven dried tomatoes, house-made ketchup (with fish sauce!), shiitake mushrooms and even a Parmesan frico. The beef has a charred exterior and soft interior- the seasonings are ON POINT. It's not the biggest of the bunch at 6oz, but you're gonna savor every mouthful.

Sushi is also a pretty quintessential coastal California night out, so the old Raz introduced me to a place up the street which he's been known to pop into on the semi-regular. They call it Sake House. Options were pretty standard with yakisoba, salmon skin and sashimi but I was straight won over by the homey interior and flowage of nigori.

- - -

Okie, say it's the morning after and things are a bit hazy. More importantly your bowels are begging for a little bit of satisfaction. Enter the ever-essential first meal after daybreak: brekkie.

Here's Old Raz's thoughts on the matter:

" I used to not eat breakfast at all..back in high school and through college I didn't like breakfast at all. I think it was because I had to wake up so early and I always said that my stomach wasn't awake yet and so I'd get indigestion or I just would not be ready to eat breakfast but since graduating college...I've realized that breakfast really is the most important meal of the day because it gets you going. "

Heard that. Indigestion is a kill-joy for sure. Counter that with a chorizo-stuffed pepper-jack covered omelet with chipotle mayo. Disaster averted. Get your fill at The Hollywood Corner.

Oh and the Old does a bit of this and that in the kitchen as well. Perfectly tossed mixed greens with a balsamic vinaigrette, pan-charred chicken breast and precision-diced Hass avocado. Oh you thought you were gonna shed those pounds on the barbacoa burrito diet? Guess again kiddo.

Next time we explore some newly discovered ethnic finds in the city of angels. Forget West L.A.

Stay Regular.

AmUric-huh?

2011-02-09T10:07:00.012-08:00

Back in the 'ole U.S. of A- where testicular fortitude is measured by your meat consumption ability and cups of coffee are larger than human stomachs. We also make this stuff. & this.

Việt Nam it ain't.

So he's back on his home soil..what's global about it? Fear not yungins, for the raw globality index score isn't measured strictly by ones current distance from their respective hometown. Naw.

'Never lose that child-like curiosity' A good friend once told me.

I like to say I live a life fueled by curiosity. I like to know things. I wouldn't say I'm an authority in any particular category, but the curious mentality is addictive because it can never and will never be fulfilled. There's always something more out there. Frustrating and motivating at the same time.

The point being although I'm back in a land I initially think of as mundane or monotonous as compared with the thrills of Asia- there's always more to discover. I look forward to peeling off that protective layer of plastic to uncover the multitude of subcultures that exist within this here land of the free. We'll see what happens, yet for now it's good to be back in the bay area again, one of the tastiest and most food obsessed regions on the globe. Yeah, I done said it.

Stay Un-Domesticated.

Best of Vietnam { Scene II }

2011-01-25T13:37:00.018-08:00

Best Go-To Dish

Cơm Sườn. You'll sniff that unmistakable aroma from down the block. No better way to begin the day than a hardwood-grilled pork chop slathered with scallion oil alongside a crispy fried egg. Indisputable. Conversation over...yet let me add: Cơm Sườn is generally finger-licking all over the city although The three ladies {and their Mama} on Cách Mạng Tháng Tám {~60 meters up from the Ba Tháng Hai traffic circle} have been serving rib chops from the sidewalk for over 32 years. Through a tireless dedication to their pork-char profession, this foursome can easily melt the heart and buckle the knees of any piglet devotee.

Honorable Mention: Only one Go-To, child.

Best Kho Dish

Thịt Kho Nước Dừa. It's all gravy when it comes to kho style cooking yet one version consistently found itself atop my crave list. Imagine chunks of pork belly. Then envision coconut juice. Then combine those thoughts. If it's not enough that you're treated to slow simmered, silky, savory and slightly saccharine all at the same time- the finished accompanying sauce is a mixture of rendered pork fat and caramelized coconut sugar. Adding this to your diet = instant quality of life boost.

Honorable Mention: Cá Basa Kho

Best Bánh Mì

The Bánh Mì Ngon stand in Cam Ranh. There isn't really much more to say. Your jaw will drop after experiencing the perfect ratio of fresh ingredients [pickled carrot and radish, shaved scallions, roast pork, meatballs, expertly carved 1/6" cucumber sliced] drizzled with that mystery pork-fat sauce inside of a crispy toasted torpedo-sharp baguette. I attempted to snatch the recipe for the sauce on my last visit. We got a no-go on that attempt. No hard feelings, it's probably worth the ticket out.

Honorable Mention: Bánh Mì Phương {Hội An}

Most Intense Sucrose-Fueled Rush

Cà Phê Sữa Đá. I didn't clearly realize how lucky I was to have this type of coffee on hand until I left for China and other east Asian destination where fresh coffee might as well be spelled: F-r-e- N-E-S-C-A-F-E! In Việt Nam they have something superb going on when it comes to percolation. Sure the flavor is kicked up a bit with the addition of one {or three} dollops of condensed milk- but even the black coffee by itself {Cà Phê Đá} is complex and bold. Fault-finders may turn their nose up and fuss about the inferior quality of Vietnamese beans. To that I say: Take a seat on this here turquoise stool {Double stack if you're a westerner, the shiznit cracks. I know. So do they. Stay safe.}, kick back and sip your complementary trà đá {iced tea} while thinking fuzzy, pre-caffeinated thoughts of sweet insignificance. Also! Be sure to hail down that morning sticky-rice vendor before she hops away. If she smiles, which she will- be sure to tip another couple thousand. Meanwhile your coffee is patiently percolating and splashes upon that creamy lake of condensed milk with methodical drip* drips*. Homogenize the two by way of baby-spoon, dump over hand-cut ice, slurp silently and witness the bedlam that ensues when 5 million motorbikes are forced to share the same city. Rise and shine Sài Gòn! Then, only then tell me if you've ever enjoyed a cup of coffee more! Stand tall Cà Phê Việt Nam.

Honorable Mention: Chè { đặc biệt là chè bột lọc với nước cốt dừa }

Best Neighborhood Dive

Phở Nam {Southern Style Phở}. This dude slicing up gnarly day-old looking meat is awesome. On my final visit to his house/restaurant he comped my bowl and poured me a hefty glass of his homemade apricot liquor- at 7 a.m. no less. Real genuine homey-style. His broth wasn't too shabby either. In fact it dominated the scene, kicking ass and taking no prisoners. No doubt the rock sugar and star anise played a part, but there was also an unctuous mouth-coating quality brought about by the shavings of mỡ {Fat!} he spooned in my bowl, only after asking permission of course!! Mornings till around 9.

Honorable Mention: The corner lady in Chợ Lớn { corner of Hồng Bàng & Phạm Đình Hổ }

Best Northern Dish

Bún Chả Hà Nội. I'd never been too dazzled by Northern style cuisine. I'm aware it might be more 'classic' in a sense but to me it lacks the fire, sweetness, intensity and creativity of Central & Southern meals. Anybody else feel me on this one? Even Phở in the north is a bit barren with it's lack of herbs. That being said, a spectacular spread of Bún Chả can get me to take back any and every negative comment I've ever said about Northern eats in the time it takes to say đói bụng quá trời luôn, sắp chết rồi! {I'm hungry!!}. Bronzed bowls of nước mắm with crunchy green papaya, grilled pork strips and sausage await their spooning atop fresh rice noodles {Bún} dressed with vibrant purple and green perilla leaves {tía tô} and shredded water spinach {rau muống}. While you're at it snatch up a savory crab-stuffed crispy roll (Nem Cua Biển) and sweet-potato shrimp fritter {Bánh Tôm Tây Hồ}. It's all there for the taking. The only question is how to protect your territory against potential chop-stick wielding, back-stabbing, meatball-snatching intruders!

Ready. Steady. Scarf.

Honorable Mention: Bánh Cuốn

Stay crème de la crème.

Best of Viet Nam

2011-01-17T22:30:00.019-08:00

I know ya'll been waiting for it.

Not strictly the best dishes in Nam, but a list of favorite foods combined with tip-top meal experiences. It's not just the flavor of the broth or crispness of the duck that cements a meal into your memory box, but the experience of eating something new in an unexplored land where every sensation is atypical and unpredictable. There's a great chance I could taste one of these dishes again sometime down the line. It could be lovingly prepared the exact same way with identical {or even superior} ingredients but still would fail to conjure up the same feelings from that one time. That's why eating is an act that cannot be re-created; every 'next meal' is its very own, tantalizing you with both the allure of unfamiliarity and potential for greatness.

Best of Viet Nam (Part One)

Best Bowl of Noodles

Mì Quảng. The noodles who call the Quảng Nam province home have made their way across the country, although the best renditions can be found south of the D.M.Z. This was my single most-dined on dish in the Socialist Republic and I never experienced Quảng fatigue. With all the variations out there how could you? The size [and color] of the noodles change from vendor to vendor, as does the amount and sweetness of broth, the greenery served on the side, the proteins piled within and even the thickness and char levels of the accompanying báng tráng nướng (grilled rice cracker). Add in peanuts and some broth-blanched mint leaves and there's no doubt this bowl can stand the test of time.

Honorable Mention: Phở Bò

Best Magical Elixir

Trái Dừa {Fresh Coconut}. No doubt with this one. I'm 96% positive this was Zeus's personal energy drink. How else could he hurl thunderbolts?! After a vigorous swim (see: sunbathe) I'd hop on the '81 and putter around in search of the nearest nut hawker. Ice cold revival nectar sipped straight out of a freshly hacked Bến Tre coconut. Kerns never had a chance.

Honorable Mention: Rượu Ngọc Dương

Best Shell

Sò Điệp Nướng Mỡ Hành [Grilled Scallops]. There's a plethora of shells and snails to choose from in this land. Vietnamese love the sidewalk seafood vendors, which is an economical choice when out boozing for the night. I've grubbed [and enjoyed] most all of the varieties but the oil {or pork fat} drenched scallions they drizzle on top of these baby grilled scallops is the best match since Roscoe's did chicken 'n waffles. Hop up to Phan Thiết or any other coastal town for ultimate freshness.

Honorable Mention: Ghẹ Rang Me (Stir-fried crab with tamarind)

Best Home-Cooked Dish

Sườn Xào Chua Ngọt {Nghẹ An}. Usually this popular dish is made by simmering ribs in a mixture of sugar, fish sauce, m.s.g. and garlic along with a sour element (vinegar, lime, tomato..up to the cook) but up in Nghẹ An a family deep fries the pork slices until crispy then simmers until the mixture is reduced to a sticky coating of bliss. The pork was crispy, chewy, caramelized, with bits of sour and salt working their way in to the party. Just imagine if caramel, pig and tamarind pods had a three way. I'm sure you can.

Honorable Mention: Gỏi Cá [Raw fish salad in Cam Ranh]

Best Stumble-Upon

Bánh Mì Mật Ong. "Cái gì đấy?! Thơm quá!" The intoxicating aroma hit me hard enough to knock me off my bike. Well, it wasn't my bike and I did recovered in time to continue down to the Lào Cai market for an afternoon grocery run. I had just returned from China and made a new friend at the border during my re-entry into Việt Nam after 3+ months abroad. I asked her about that ridiculously seductive smell that had just penetrated my nasal cavity. She told me it's a little honey bun shop run by Chinese immigrants. Forget about supper It's time to get my bun on. I left her to barter over some tacky high-heels and pulled a U-turn {which technically don't exist in Việt Nam, it's just called driving} back to the source of this scent. The place was poppin' like a downtown Denny's on New Year's Eve. Buns were being impaled with toothpicks and thrown into plastic bags so quickly the 4 workers in the back could barely keep up the pace. I wrestled my way through the flying elbows that define a Vietnamese 'line' and ordered 5 to go. By the time I scooted the 2 blocks back to the market my bag was empty. Besides the fragrant aroma of honey, the buns were light and soft with a texture even the French couldn't make a fuss about. Just perfect. My new acquaintance and I returned for a ten pack of these golden twists, and at 1.000 VND (5 cents) a pop, why not? If you find yourself up in Lào Cai, do find yourself to the bun shop peddling honey baked happiness.

Honorable Mention: Vịt Quay in Nghẹ An

Best Utilization of Fermented Purple Shrimp Paste {Mắm Tôm}

Cơm Hến. Who doesn't love them some Hến?!? Frankly, most people. This dish of day old rice and river clams {Hến} is as lovely as it is frightening- but what else are you supposed to do with Mắm Tôm? Kidding. I don't mind a little purple slime with my crispy dog legs but this potent paste has to be used correctly. The Hến have a natural mushroom-like earthiness to them, but this dish is unique because you have a gang-load of ingredients (rice, river mussels, fried pork skin, shredded banana flower, chili paste, Thai basil, shrimp paste, fish sauce, peanuts, mint) that are all absolutely essential. Every participant brings something to the potluck. Basil: Freshness. Chili: Fire. Pork Skin: Crunch. Mussels: Meaty backbone. Nobody asks Mắm Tôm to take on a leading role in this situation, as it happily shares the limelight with the 12 or so other components. Now everybody's happy.

Honorable Mention: Bún Riêu

Best Use of a Hot Pan

Bánh Xèo Miền Trung. I didn't really care for the Southern-style Vietnamese Bánh Xèo during most of my time in Hồ Chí Minh city. Even the celebrated Bánh Xèo 46a- which has been praised to the point of exhaustion- failed to really do it for me. It was either too many bean sprouts or a wilting crust or some other problem. From Phan Thiết up to around Nha Trang is where Bánh Xèo are really done right. Forget that mission burrito-sized crepe and laborous rolling process- in Cam Ranh you get a three-bite sized crisp pancake stuffed with hauntingly fresh squid to dunk into a sweetened Nước Mắm blend. Trust me, you'll be scarfing so quick they won't have a chance to soggify. I'm talking dirt-cheap and outrageously satisfying. Sit your ass on that stool and watch the lady pour, stuff, cover, uncover, flip, and serve your pancakes to order. Keep 'em coming. Một cái nữa..Một cái nữa...Một cái nữa chị ơi!!

Honorable Mention: Bò Né

Stay Unparalleled.

Back in Nam, it's a doggy dog world.

2011-01-03T09:55:00.013-08:00

Bình Phước Province. December 2o1o.

Grilled goat udders. Saigon Beers. Snake hot pot. Ngọc Dương liquor. Late night karaoke session. More Saigon brews. Bed.

The next morning was a veritable grog-fest, and by 10 A.M. it's already searing outside in Phước Long. The mouth is dry and crusty like a day old baguette..need some aqua. This actually wasn't my main concern. In my happy-go-lucky stupor I had willingly agreed the previous night to a breakfast date of dog with a freshly met acquaintance. Normally not something I'd be apprehensive about but this morning my bowels were feeling dangerously volatile. Oh, there's the doorbell. Looks like it's brekkie time.

Như had sung the praises of this spot several times over the course of the previous night's festivities, so my curiosity was piqued. I had only sampled dog once before, and that was in South Korea where it came shredded in a spicy soup. In Vietnam there's quite the demand for canine- so much so that tens of thousands of dogs are smuggled from northeast Thailand each month. Như assured me we'd be eating local dogs in order to reduce our carbon footprint. Mind: at ease.

I'll admit bacon and eggs sounded better, but how often to you get the chance to enjoy boiled dog, fermented shrimp paste and rice whiskey for breakfast?! Not every day. Actually this plate of simmered bits and pieces was not my thing. Way to much floppy fat. Instead I decided to hit the bottle of rice wine to 'see what happens'- which by the way is completely different than winging it.

After unsuccessfully gnawing through bits of stringy meat, I was delighted to see the next dish arrive. Grilled chunks of dog coated with sesame seeds and a layer of finely minced lemongrass. The whole deal was grilled to the brink of blackened..just the way global likes it. I also appreciated the fresh herbs and roots on the side. Take a leaf the Vietnamese call lá mơ, drop your grilled hound nugget in the center, add more fresh lemongrass, galangal (riềng), then roll and dip in aforementioned mắm tôm [purple shrimp paste] for a mélange of textures and fragrances. Ngon dễ sợ!!

For dessert, some crisp-skinned roasted pork belly along with the usual suspects. What a morning. What a country.

Stay Resolute.

Yak Butter Revelations {Scene 2}

2010-12-28T11:33:00.008-08:00

Continuing through the one and only people's republic, making my way down south from Sichuan in the Yunnan province. During the descent from many thousands of feet, my ears and toes gradually defrosted, and ingredients like lemongrass and mangoes even made much appreciated appearances. Take a peek at what I got into:

洱海 (ěrhǎi: Er Lake) Yunnan Province.

Steady sprinkling freshwater shrimp out to dry...

..or if you can't wait that long grub 'em fresh with chili.

Cozy up to that clay pot. Those frosty mornings get a little warmer with chili-laced rice noodles.

Chili dusted Yak skewers. Born to please.

Freshly baked bread rolls served up on the side of the highway.

A simple grill shop for one of my most satisfying dining experiences. My buddy and I grubbed on chicken butt & feet, goat cheese slices, lotus root, mushrooms and slightly fermented tofu that was off the chains tasty after dipping in the Sichuan peppercorn oil-mixture.

The next night saw crispy fried grasshoppers and other treats. Crunchy and salty. My new friends invited me to eat via google translate: "We will eat larvae. Do you dare?" I dared. Didn't really taste like much..although the pig rectum they we're scarfing down was absolutely horrid. Porky shoulda used the do-it-yourself enema kit.

What's with the stink-eye girl?!

Fried cheese. Oh you betta' believe. Yunnan churns out some dairy-based gifts and these thin sheets of fried cheese are found all over town.

China truly has a little bit of everything on it's plate so let's not disrespect and try to sum it up in a single paragraph of a blog post. Honestly not my favorite country grub-wise but I will say the food I ate was honestly bold. They don't shy away from flavor. Salt, vinegar, chili paste, and oil. I'm fairly convinced cooking oil is tax deductible in this country. That being said you can get regional to satisfy your specific cravings. If you fancy dim sum and roast meats then head to the southeast. Need a lil' fire? Boat inland to HuNan, ChongQing or SiChuan provinces. On the east coast steamed pork dumplings won't raise any eyebrows but how about cumin scented lamb and grilled flat bread? I ate many meals that I wouldn't have considered 'Chinese' before sampling for myself. 2 months of meandering is really just a dip of the toe. Make your way over and discover some new ways to whet the appetite. A special land, indeed.

Stay Made In.

CHINA PART 2 - Yak Butter Revelations

2010-12-20T01:32:00.017-08:00

While the first go around was strictly metroplex based, I decided to chop it up rural style for my second China run. I started out in highlands of Western Sichuan, where vast nothingness is a welcomed respite from jammed subways. Naturally, as you rise in elevation the selection of cuisine changes [read: thins]. Only the strongest of the strong survive through those bitter winters. Enter Yak. Enter Butter. Enter Tea. Enter Churn.

It's what's for breakfast. Lunch. Dinner. Tibetans in western China guzzle this stuff like Koreans do Soju. The only difference being that yak butter tea won't leave you face down in a gutter with a wet crotch.

I'd heard a lot about this type of tea so I was eager to sample. Kinda like Durian or Mắm Tôm- an acquired taste. Or not. Some people enjoy things on their very first bite ever! Tell you what; next time your up at 14,000 feet in Western China, give Y.B.T. sip and form your own opinion.

We're churning Yak butter with hot black tea {Technically we call the female Yak a dri}. Sure, there's tea involved but don't expect anything sweet, floral or aromatic. Not even close. Wild roaming Yak has a potent grass-fed fragrance which is passed along to the frothy tea via lactation. Salty aged goat is my best description.

Grandma's been churning for decades. Peep the picture perfect posture.

Stay Blended.

The Peninsula

2010-12-11T02:25:00.008-08:00

Thailand is tasty- as most of you are aware. My 2nd trip confirmed that. They are capable of putting together a meal; balancing flavors, using ingredients creatively to create something capable of tickles all our senses. Everything you throw down the hatch is at the very least 'good' and many times marvelous. Can that be said for many countries? As long as you simply snack outside of tourist ghettos, even with a blindfold on you'd do fine sniffing your way around.

Chang Beer. Not the best..but with the sand between your toes who's complaining?

Curry paste. Eat it like ice cream.

There's a new sheriff in town. Call it Mr. Pad Ga-Prao Muu {ผัดกะเพรา}. Ground pork stir-fried with chilis and Thai holy basil. This variety of basil is critical- ordinary Thai basil they commonly serve stateside won't do. Order with a greasy, oozing fried egg on the side. This vendor added crispy fried pork belly pieces to the stir fry to boost caloric and euphoria levels.

Southeast Asian chicken 'n waffles meal.

It's Pad Thai, the intro dish for people who don't really know what else to order on the menu. That being said, it's still amazing. Tangy tamarind. Crunchy bean sprouts. Fried Tofu and pork. A perfect blend for $1. If you're a Thai Wok lady with an apron on, we're friends.

Down in Trang they eat a Thai-Style dim sum and b.b.q. roast pork for breakfast. Damn I love Asia.

Oh, they've got some beaches in the south as well. Relax for a bit. {Koh Kradan}

Fried Crispy.

I also became an avid fan of Northern Style Sausage [ไส้อั่ว Sua Ua} during my trip. Ground pork laced with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and chilis. Not overly sweet like some other types of Asian sausage, with just the right amount of burn. Lets just say the sausage lady and I were on a first name basis.

Stay Supreme.

Seemingly Stuck

2010-11-24T07:24:00.008-08:00

Thailand sees it's fair share of Tourists year in and year out and over on the backpacker isle of Koh Lipe they have a nice little system working. The island is quite petite so there is absolutely no chance of scooting off to a spot where no 'farang' has ventured before. Beachfront restaurants along with smaller shacks sell basic Thai dishes for travelers at 2-3 times the mainland price. Their reasoning is that 'it's an island' but please it's not the Pitcairns [pop. 50]- we're 20 miles off the coast. Shipping can't be that expensive. It seems like every spot sells everything for the same price- be it sunscreen ($12 a bottle anyone?), fried chicken or mineral water. Almost like they have an island-wide union set up and selling below the going rate will get a bone or two broken by this guy.

I've come to accept paying more in tourist areas, but I'm not thrilled about paying these prices when the food is average and choices are limited. pad thai, papaya salad, sticky rice, banana pancake, pad thai, papaya salad...Needless to say I felt suffocated.

One sunny morning I asked the massage ladies next to our lovely cabanas [above] what it is they eat. They told me they cook their meals. Not surprising. Right then and there I knew I wanted to eat that- whatever it was. Three of us pooled together some cash and the ladies went off to the market to cook up a hearty spread of Thai dishes.

A few kilos of fresh Tuna fresh got stuffed with Pandan Leaves and grilled over a few spare 2x4's they found on the beach. Probably from the restaurant being built next door.

Water Spinach to Asia is like Bert to Ernie.

The ladies hard at work. In the States they have these ratings where to most folks 'C' translates to stay the hell away and opt for Jack-in-the-Box instead. Soooo this is probably a 'Q' rating if you wanna get specific about it. But I don't. So lets not.

Wok-Toasting sticky rice for Lap Muu- a spicy ground pork mixture with lime, herbs and shallots. A Laos / Isan [North-East Thailand: homeland of the massage ladies] specialty. Stuff looks and tastes better when the wok is involved.

Limes, shallots, scallions and cilantro. Four big-time Thai players.

Lap Muu. In all it's glory. Actually doesn't look that glorious but the taste was top-notch.

They fry until golden and crispy, even if it means you're taking in loads of oil with it. The way I look at it is that's just extra flavor for the high life.

A tart sauce of tamarind, chilis, sugar and fish sauce is spooned over the fried tuna to create 'pla sam lot'. 3 flavored fish. Works perfectly.

The final spread also included Pad Siew [fried noodles with soy], Pork Satay [skewers] and Sticky rice to go with the fish, Lap Muu and water spinach. Then we sipped vodka and counted the stars. Lots of 'em. The banana pancake was not invited.

Stay Relentless.

Sun Gauds

2010-11-19T02:15:00.004-08:00

So in China our visa went a little something like this. Over the duration of 6 months we were permitted to meander around China (sans Tibet) for two 30-day intervals, but needed to exit the country after our first 30 days ran up. After 29 beach-less and mostly drizzly days we opted for a flight down south to the peninsula for some sun and suds, Thai-style. We touched down into Kuala Lumpur, and relaxed for a bit in the Malaysian Megatropolis of multiple ethnicities. Actually we knocked 'em back..but I wouldn’t recommend to much boozing because alcohol prices are damn pricy. Even in 7-11 the cheapest can of beer is about 2 fiddy. In bars expect to pay at least [U.S.] $7.

The rice plate; a symbol of sustenance, consistency and freedom of expression throughout Asia. Around noontime on the eastern end of the world, literally billions of people will extend their fingers and point to the dish of their liking and process to shovel scary amount of steamed rice down the hatch. In Vietnam it might be paired with coconut juice simmered pork, in Indonesia maybe with some Tempeh and fried egg, off in the Philippines they'll opt for chicken legs stewed with bay leaves and vinegar.

Down in Malaysia they have a bunch of spots where you just spoon whatever you desire on your plate and they’ll charge you accordingly. It's fittingly called Nasi Campur (mixed rice). Beef cooked with lemongrass and coconut milk, Chinese cabbage, roasted pork, ikan bilis (anchovies). The predominant flavor is sweet, which was a stark contrast to the salty and sour flavor of Sichuan. H.E.A.T. is still on tap, though. Where in Sichuan it’s a slow methodical burning and numbing, down on the peninsula the sambal (chili paste) is fast-acting and blunt with its intensity. My first nasi lemak breakfast of the trip had me hiccup-ping with glee.

Stay Equatorial.

Central Chinese Sensations

2010-11-04T18:08:00.013-07:00

Welcome to the land of Spice o' plenty.

If you've been used to Eastern Chinese nosh like steam buns and roast pork your buds and sweat glands are gonna get a nice lil' wake up call. Sichuanese food is spicy, numbing, salty and oily! Don't even think about strolling in to a Sìchuān eatery unprepared. Every sit-down is an intense experience requiring the utmost focus and diligence!

One of the most famed dishes: Chóngqìng huǒ guō. Though Sìchuān later made this boiled bowl of fervor famous throughout China, Chóngqìng natives claim the dish. The little coriander looking balls floating around are actually 花椒 huājiāo [Sìchuān peppercorn], the most crucial ingredient in real Sìchuān cuisine.They provide a light citrus flavor but more noticeably numb the hell outta your mouth and lips [or nose- don't ask]. I heard that in the countryside the dentists still use huājiāo before yanking that wisdom tooth. This was our third [and hottest] huǒ guō. I had to tap out in the 6th. Hands were trembling for some reason. Burn.

牛肉麵 Niú ròu miàn. Just your basic beef noodle soup any self-respecting soup shop boils up. Once you cross into the Chóngqìng and Sìchuān provinces, by default these noodles get spoonfuls of chili and huājiāo. Look out.

宮保雞丁 gōngbǎo jīdīng [Kung Pao Chicken]. Yeah, even your Aunt Henrietta in Pawnee Rock, Kansas knows this dish. We all love it. The oriental take-out staple that they actually eat in China. Cubed chicken with peanuts and peppers or cucumber- this dish is one of the least fiery choices of the province. Watch out for the 70/30 ratio of peanuts to chicken.

Smoked ribs. Chili Powder. Nice.

'Tiger Skin Peppers' scorched over an open flame.

鱼香茄子 Yú xiāng qiézi. This is how Sìchuān does eggplant. 'Fish Flavored' eggplant although containing no fish products or seafood scent. The name comes from the cooking style also used with fish dishes. Word. Deep fry slices of eggplant until they bleed and then saute with garlic, scallions, ginger and doubanjiang paste. Oil levels not seen since the pubescent era.

夫妻肺片 fūqī fèipiàn ["Married couple's Sliced Offal"]. Sliced beef lungs in a spicy sauce served cold. Originally a economical option for blue-collar workers, in the 1930's 郭朝華, and his wife 張田政 made this dish all the rage in Chéngdū, provincial capital of Sìchuān.

The full lunchtime spread. Clockwise from the bottom we've got: a bucket of rice, smoked duck [樟茶鸭 zhāngchá yā], spicy stir-fried rabbit, stewed frog legs, fūqī fèipiàn, stir-fried [莧菜 xiàncài] spinach, sweet 'n sour pork ribs and a coagulated duck blood soup in the center. DUCK.RABBIT.FROG.LUNG.GREENS.RIB.BLOOD. Grub on that. Our best (2) meals were provided by these ladies. The previous night they took us out for a supurb 2.5 kilo plump catfish cooked in a spicy broth [shuǐzhǔ style] and topped with sliced potatoes and veggies. Plus they Gānbēi brews like Germans- even with faulty acetaldehyde dehydrogenase enzymes!

Pig brains! Creamy texture like softened bean curd with a salty swine flavor. I'm not gonna lie and say we ate the whole bowl. A bit unsavory.

Rabbit Heads. Taste about the same as you'd imagine. Couldn't crack the skull to get into the brains but the eyes and tongues were delectable. C'mon folks it's Sìchuān! Plus the rabbit was so cute looking on the menu we had to sample.

Be sure to get global with other dishes such as 麻婆豆腐 mápó dòufǔ [spicy beancurd] 回鍋肉 huíguōròu [boiled then stir-fried pork belly slices] and 辣子鸡 làzǐjī [fried chicken with chilies]. Like I said, bring your A game.

Stay Anesthetized.

Follow the Yangze

2010-11-02T02:49:00.008-07:00

We boldly march onward through this puzzling country, heading due East from Shànghǎi out to Wǔhàn before boating along the longest river in the world. Here's a few grub-able images from the passage into the heart of Yangtze River Delta- an area responsible for 20% of China's GDP. All aboard.

I told you they get more curious. He's enjoying a mid-day flask of báijiǔ with his meal- nothing wrong with that. The man looks vigorous and healthy. Let him be.

In Wǔhàn the like to morning snack on a dish called 熱乾麵 { Re gan mian: Hot Dry noodles }. Each vendor will throw a lil' something different into their cup, but order up expecting some sesame paste, soy and spiciness. Pickled veggies and peanuts make cameos as well.

Little cozy spots like this are all over if you sniff enough. I've been known to sniff. Usually turns out okay for me. One thing I found interesting with many Chinese noodle dishes is that they contain very little or no meat whatsoever. Just a grip of noodles with a spicy/salty sauce. I guess I'm partial to Vietnamese noodle dishes where they throw they whole farm and garden in the bowl. We'll see what else I can uncover.

One of the highlights of our trip was the 32 hour ferry we took along the Yangtze river. Just 300 Chinese and the two of us, with our hairy arms and high noses. Enjoyable times. Nothing gourmet about the meals on this vessel. Boiled cabbage, soybeans and slices of pork fat over rice. I would've likened it to prison food, but then I read Damage Done. Just can't complain anymore.

Back on solid ground they can hit the wok with style and grace, leading to some satisfying results. It's all about 鑊氣 { wok hei } which is a term to describe the flavor, texture and caramelizing effects provided by screaming hot metal. If you can differentiate between a plate of fried noodles cooked on a Teflon pan at home vs. a restaurant wok at 100,000+ B.T.U. then you're familiar with the power of the wok's breath. If not, get acquainted quick.

Or if ya don't fancy a stir-fry you can always fry the brains outta the poor bastard. Here's a couple Yangtze river fish we picked out. My boy cooked them up with a dandy lil' black bean sauce [?] for us. 20 Y [$3] for the pair.

7 A.M. in China. Ever dipped your Krispy Kreme in cappuccino? The Chinese dip crispy featherweight 油條 { yóu tiáo - 'oil stick' } in fresh, warm soy milk.

Next up we'll concentrate on Sìchuān specialties. Bring the fire hydrant. Leave the kiddies.

Stay 2O1O World Champs.

It's China

2010-10-30T22:09:00.008-07:00

They slurp. They invent gunpowder. They spit. They stare. They even snot-rocket. They'll sneeze on your shirt while howling into their cell phone- volume control what? They don't speak-a-da English so much, but they will take your picture. 20% of the world lives within these borders. It's their land, you're the alien. A bit apprehensive? Naw, don't be. It's only China. There's nowhere else like it.

炒粉 [ Chǎo Fěn] The Chinese have been eating noodles for 4000 years, so why don't you step back and let them keep doing what they do. Flat rice noodles wok'd with soy. This type of dish eventually boated it's way down to Southeast Asia thanks to the immigrants of Guangdong and Fujian, morphing into similar, sweeter versions like Char Kway Teow (Malaysia) and Pad Siew (Thailand). In China they stay true to the dominating flavor of sodium chloride. Homie obviously hooked me up with one overflow of an order. I owe him a Guinness.

白酒 [ Bái Jiǔ ] This is rice wine, a.k.a. the original component of Chinese torture and the quickest way to cirrhosis since Popov. The burning sensation is expected, but the lingering aftertaste and after-burps these bottles of misery provide are positively heinous. Somehow this didn't stop us...probably because it's cheap as mud and there aren't many other options.

餃子 [ Jiǎozi] This is the steamed version of the pot sticker. Minus the sticking to the pot. You’ll find stacks of these dumplings available at any hour, although most popular during breakfast. Get yourself a set of 10 for around 5 Yuan ( 75 ¢ ). Pork and green onions of course.

Not in the land of Durian or Mangosteen anymore, but China can still provide some Vitamin C.

小籠包 [ Xiǎo Lóng Bāo ]. Baby steamed dumplings with a squirting surprise the whole family can enjoy. The inside contains a mix of pork and gelatinous pork broth. Once steamed, the gelatin melts a bit and turns into a salty swine-laced soup. We have a winner!

Outside of the lame tourist hot-spots it’s rare to find a menu with any resemblance of 'grish so before learning a few basic food characters we employed the point-and-pray method. Scored this time [picture menu didn't hurt]. Stir-fried shrimp with scallions. The shrimp were fried a bit crisp so the shell was fair game. I appreciate the heat provided as well.

A major player on many streets in most cities we visited were wok roasted chestnuts. One of those uncommon low-fat nuts, the chestnut provides mad fiber and flavor. Gluten free to boot! They heat 'em up in a pebble-filled wok until the shells burst. Buttery.

Roasted Duck noodle soup.

The Chinese, unsurprisingly have pride to spare with respect to their food. You just can't teach that type of passion and I love it. Chinese enjoy seeing the big-nosed foreigner sample their foods and if you can stomach it- instant street cred! Nighttime food-themed streets are a standard in big cities, where you can get anything from cotton-candy to pig ears.

蚵仔煎 [ Ké Zǎi Jiān ]. One of Fujian's most famous is the oyster omelet. A small army of oysters fried up with egg and green onions on a hot plate until crispy. This threesome of ingredients come together and make it work. Highly recommended. Plus, you get to eat about 30 oysters. That's never a bad thing. Unless you're A.C. Green.

Come head inland with me next. The locals get more curious and edible things get downright spicy and greasy.

Stay Atypical.

Hitting the Mainland

2010-10-18T20:34:00.012-07:00

Big leagues, kid. Batter up.

Hong Kong is a special Administrative Section of China, but technically separate from the peoples republic. This group of 235 (mostly rural) islands amount to less than the size of Los Angeles , but are home to seven million plus. Only Singapore, Monaco and Macau are more densely populated. Here you can find hundred million dollar estates perched on Victoria Peak, $10,000 dollar a night hotels rooms, overzealous Filipino hookers, expats with bulging bank accounts and the coolest seaside skyline since the great Avante Garde revolution of ’26. Oh, and I hear they're obsessed with eating here as well.

雲吞麵 (Wonton Noodle Soup) is an important dish when you’re talking the Cantonese cuisine talk. It’s been said that a 70-30 [shrimp to pork] ratio is the industry standard to stuff inside the freshly rolled wrappers. Shrimps were garden fresh and broth was rich and buttery. One of the few standout inexpensive dishes in this cosmopolitan cash-sucking metropolis. I’d dive in again for sure. ~18 HK ($2.32).

叉燒 ['Char Siew'] is the ‘bbq pork’ of China. Fatty pork shoulder strips marinated in Hoisin sauce, honey and 5 spice then roasted to a salivating crisp. This is a basic course in proper caramelization and the wonders it does to meat. Caramel + Pork Fat = happy campers. Proper 叉燒 should be fatty and juicy, not fibrous and dry!! I’ve had too much of the latter in my day but they were born to roast in Hong Kong and it shows.

燒鵝 (Roast Goose) alongside 叉燒 (Char Siew) in theoutskirts of Hong Kong (New Territories). Succulent, tender, greasy and crisp skinned. The grand slam of roast meats. In addition to these two you can also find roast pork belly (saltier flavor, cracker-like skin), roast duck and roast chicken in these types of eateries. Many have attempted but nobody does it better than the roast masters of Southeast China.

Served with some 芥蘭, stir-fried Chinese Kale. Gotta have your greens on the side. Well, don't have to but if you fancy taking out the trash more than once a week it's best to get some fiber. Super crisp stalks of Vitamin K stir-fried with garlic. As global as a vegetable comes.

點心. Of course we also have to talk a bit about dim sum. Little steamed or fried snacks usually served in the mornings or evenings famous in Hong Kong and the Guangzhou (Canton) province of China. Here we have some 牛肉球 (steamed beef meatballs), but please do yourself a favor and sample 叉燒包 {Char siu bao [bbq pork bun]}, 蝦餃 {har gao [steamed shrimp dumpling]}, 芋角 {wu gok [mashed taro with pork, mushrooms and a crispy fried shell]}, and 腸粉 {cheong fun [steamed, stuffed rice rolls]}. Basically, just try anything. In Hong Kong a dish of Dim Sum would run you around 2 bucks.

These are 鍋貼 (guo tie; "pot stick") or as we know them in the west, Ling Ling. This is more of a northern Chinese dish instead of Cantonese but anytime I see anyone hand-making anything on the spot, I most definitely have to stroll on in and investigate.

Pork, green onions and soy. You’ll be eating that again China traveler. By the way this lady had insane Usain speed. I clocked her at 6.52 seconds per dumpling.

Along with the goodies, meals like this were far too common. The sauce couldn’t have been saltier and the noodles had the texture of plastic. Could not swallow. Horrid.

The three of us never actually made it out but rumors were circulating about this huge mass of water surrounding Hong Kong. I guess you catch fish and stuff out there. Here’s some clams with black bean sauce. In Asia they love their snails and shells. I’m a huge fan nowadays, although you have to eat something like 116 to fill up.

Korean Bulgogi Burger! My travel partner craves western fare like a pregnant chick craves cashew butter and catfish smoothies so I occasionally come along for the ride. For the record, I did enjoy the $9 patty.

To be real with you, a lot of sub-par grub was had in this Asian Western Wonderland. It's undoubtedly out there, but we just didn't stumble upon into those amazing places. The massively debilitating hangovers from nights in Wan Chai and Lang Kwai Fong that impeded on our will and or ability to scour long and hard for great eats could have played a part- but I'm not making excuses. $9 drafts we're worth it...right? I had fun, though. Ok…on to the Peoples Republic next! Brace yourself!

Stay Nocturnal.

LOST IN 中國

2010-09-23T10:13:00.006-07:00

I haven't fallen off the map, just yet. Right now I'm in the
People's Republic of China so BLOGGING is a big no-no. Big thanks to
my brother for posting this from California for me. I'll do my best to
represent my eats whilst inside these curious confines- starting with
Hong Kong.

Taiwan's Resurgence

2010-08-31T21:05:00.007-07:00

Back up on the island of Taiwan where I'm determined to grab a hold of some delectable munchables after a slightly disappointing visit last September. An obvious point that I failed to fully comprehend back in the days of 2oo9 is that it takes more than a few days to sample a sizable representation of an Asian country's cuisine. It takes years. Hundreds and hundreds of dishes + thousands and thousands of places to eat them = You win some you lose some. Taipei has endless eating spots...I can only do my best to shave that iceburg tip. So far so good, children. Here's a winner from a couple days ago, introduced to me by host Mike 'El Capitan' Corsini.

The making of 牛肉捲餅 [beef wrap]. Can you feel it?

The chewy 'n crispy scallion-laced dough is stuffed with thin slices of boiled beef shank, a hoisin-like sauce, cucumber and a green onion stalk or two. No doubt a filler-upper, this snack's single-handily responsible for over 17,000 muffin-tops in Taipei alone.

Stay Caloric.

Three Spot

2010-08-27T00:44:00.005-07:00

Breakfast: Phở Bò

Lunch: Nasi Lemak

Dinner: 牛肉麵

Stay at Large.

Mission Accomplished

2010-08-23T22:29:00.006-07:00

A week of vegetarianism in the books. Oh, you betta believe it. Not even a drop a fish sauce. Although I must admit, one vendor's dirty mayo knife might have spread a touch of Patê reside on my fried egg bánh mì. I'm just an honest, humble blue collar dude like that. You forgive me, right?

Let's take a look at some of the week's offerings:

Hủ Tiếu Xào. The thing about going meatless in Việt Nam is that it's almost impossible to get full in one sitting. 15 minutes after one meal the bowels would be growling again. By the third night I was getting B-12 deficiency headaches. I needed more protein for strength and fiber for fullness. I needed a new gameplan.

In stepped Chè Trôi Nước . A pair of sticky rice balls stuffed with đậu xanh [mung beans] in a bath of coconut milk. An afternoon glass of Chè usually helped hold me over and keep the tummy happy..for a few minutes at least.

I also made sure to hit up the Soy Bar™, where old Absolut Vodka bottles are filled with freshly simmered, pandan infused Soymilk. Warm or on ice. I couldn't resist a couple glasses a day, despite Vietnamese warning me I'd turn into a girl if I kept enjoying this testosterone-suppressing beverage. MYTH.

Bánh Bột Chiên. Is that cooking oil or pork fat they're frying with? You gotta stay on your toes as a vegetarian. These rice cakes were griddle-fried up nice and crisp, with a soy dipping sauce. Chinese origins, no doubt.

Fresh Bánh Mì. Nothing wrong with that. I treated myself to a couple 'laughing cow' cheese bánh mì's for shats and goggles. They like to sprinkle some sugar on the cheese..which is beyond me. Don't ask 'why' in Việt Nam. They do how they do. Roll with it.

Đậu hủ nước đường. Mmm. Another addition to the slew of soy snacks. This one's silken tofu with a stupendously sweet ginger sauce and coconut milk. Slurp-it-up. Afternoons around 2-4 in my hood. Like clockwork, she'll be there.

My best discovery of the week. Straight NARnia. I noshed at a few veggie rice shops throughout the week but the top spot is no doubt 'Đóa Sen Vàng', 154 Bắc Hải st. [Tân Bình District]. This place actually takes that jump all the way to veganville- and they turn out all sorts of imitation meat dishes from roasted pork to fish cakes to sausages to omelettes. Cheap as bark. Funky fresh staff. Feel good after grubbin' as well. I even returned- AFTER THE CHALLENGE HAD ENDED. I'm telling you it's gravy like that.

You know that glass of cà phê sữa đá is still patiently waiting for you. Sip on this eye-opener.

I'm not changing to a meat-free diet, but dammit I learned some things so listen. You can get full on a vegetarian diet. You won't necessarily lose weight- especially if they deep fry all the veggies - but your arteries won't complain from the monounsaturated fats. You don't need to eat a 24 ounce steak to certify your masculinity, although who am I to stop you. 70% of U.S. grain production is feed to livestock! Even in the poorest Asian countries it's the same trend. The poor folks who lose their land to new developments of feedlots can't even afford the beef that's being produced.

Is it really healthier to be vegetarian? Either way, I wouldn't mind a few days a month of veggies to cleanse the mind, body and soul like that. That is, except when getting global in a new land..

Stay Challenged.

Challenge of the Week

2010-08-17T08:03:00.022-07:00

The other evening was Old Raz (big brother) and his buddies' last night in Vietnam { for now :o } so we enjoyed a grand ole' feast at Square One Restaurant in the Park Hyatt Saigon. Below is no ordinary nathan's famous, ladies and gents. Here's what the folks down at the park like to call: Duck sausage stuffed with foie gras, confit and pistachio. Duck 3 ways, in one bite! Just about as heart stopping as it sounds. Unctuousness that I can *and will* get down with. Assisting in digestion for the night: gruyere mac 'n cheese, mashed spuds, parsley-butter wild mushrooms, a quadruple layer chocolate cake that was just ridiculous in it's girth as well as a fresh-baked coconut crumble- for our fruits, ya know.

Photo courtesy of Old Raz's iPhone 4. See, it's not that amazing don't buy it. No more cell phone shots. Good thing I rock the black and white Nokia from the tecmo-bowl era.

- - -

That meal was satisfying for sure, one of my better [ western style ] chow-downs in quite some time. I think Old finally experienced fullness, something that had eluded him the previous 5 days: "Vietnamese food is good - it's just not ENOUGH!". I couldn't blame the [Old] kid. Vietnamese food is good, it's really good- especially if you lose your inhibitions and forgot about those dated western schools of thought about which part of the animal should be eaten [Pig ear? Duck tongues? Rooster balls?] and how a food should smell [Durian anyone? Mắm Tôm]. If you let down your guard and simply indulge in these 'odd' yet imaginative eastern meals, you'll have a grand time uncovering the hundreds and hundreds of regional dishes on offer. The longer I stay here, the more comfort I find in each food. Inside that steaming bowl of canh chua isn't just the fantastic essence of fish bones, tamarind and pineapple, but memories from a uniquely unconventional lifestyle in Việt Nam that I already miss even before saying farewell.

Comforting, it is. But hearty? Maybe not so much. I'm just thinkin' 2 a.m. status after a hard night of Gin 'n Tons. As I exit the bar in a utter state of disorientation- the only thing I can be sure of is I need to fill my gut pronto. Am I headed down here to slurp up a bowl of rice noodles and herbs or over there to mindlessly gorge on a plateful of al pastor tacos. For me the choice is clear. It's even worth that bright red grease stain from the pork fat drippings I always find on the underside of my wrist- the next morning. You've been there. Note: I adore Mexican food at all hours of the day, in all states of consciousness. Just so we're clear.

My point here is. Um. Yeah, that sometimes there's no replacement for that big hunk of pork shoulder or tuna belly. But what if you had to find a replacement? What if you couldn't snack on bone-in rib-eye, crispy fried flounder or smoked spareribs. How would you live I ask you?

Bringing me to my challenge of the week.

2 corn [over]fed rib-eye circa 2oo7. { Shot courtesy of one of my main boys: Sean Desmond - who's doing crazy thangs out in S.F. Check him out. }

Go Veggie.

Say whaaat?

Temporarily.

Aight then. Cool.

For seven days I'll be abstaining from all meats, fish and fish related products. Including nước mắm. What's that? Oh, only the fermented anchovy sauce that's found in 99% of all savory dishes in this Country. For people in the states it's kinda like saying: 'Let's go out to eat tonight, but my friend Bill over here doesn't eat salt. Lets find him a salt-free restaurant for some tasty salt-less meatloaf.' Sure it's not that tough and yes there are Vegetarian spots in town but I'm making another point here.

RuLeS

No meat or fish
No meat or fish based broths
No nước mắm
Eggs are chill
No western restaurant meals {Bread O.K.}
No whining - at least I still get to eat

No, I wasn't motivated by some youtube PETA vid and no I won't be permanently switching to Vegetarianism. I love crazy variety, and to cut out ANY food group would be considerable un-global of me. I'm really doing it...to see what happens. One part curiosity, one part challenge. Check that- It's almost a embarrassing to call this a challenge as my brother trains for his second consecutive IRONMAN triathlon- but the Yung has gotta start somewhere. Keep in mind I'm not sure if I've gone veggie for more than 7 hours- let alone 7 days. Maybe this will train me to be a bit more imaginative when choosing my meals- hunt down the unfamiliar stuff, ya hear? Maybe my skin will glow. Maybe my gray hairs will turn black again. Maybe I'll have amazing bowl movements, endless energy and become one with all the butterflies in the rainforest. Or maybe I'll be so weak by the 4th day for protein deficiency that I give in to a plate of lard slathered pork chops. Only time will tell.

Stay Focused.

One more nibble..

2010-08-12T03:57:00.009-07:00

Wait, I'm back in central vietnam...whaaaat?

Sesame, sugar, smoke & pork.

My original plan was to be in another country at this time, but as you know it's the tropics. Plans changes. You adjust. So when your big bro calls and says he'll be flying in to Việt Nam in 3 weeks, you best get your ass back down to Sài Gòn. And when he informs you his buddy is putting you up in the Park Hyatt and flying you up to Hội An for shats 'n gigs, you count your lucky stars for sure.

This week I'm proud to introduce guest globaleats photographer: Professional cinematographer Michael Rizzi. If you don't know him yet, then I thought you thought you will soon. A maestro of film and an absolute whiz behind the lens. He's also my brother. Get in touch with him if you need a something filmed, he shoot anything not named WEDDING.

The other day we spotting a pint-sized sidewalk set-up while biking around the old town of Hội An.

Stay low. Don't fret about the dust. That's how they do. Dude's rocking the '81. RESPECT.

Lemongrass grilled pork, spicy nước mắm, raw greens and rice paper. I dare you to find something more 'namese than that.

3.000 VND per stick- even though she tried to charge me 5.000 per (26 cents)! Yeah, yeah..I know. But beware of tourist areas. Cắt cổ !

Stay Smoldering.

That's All Kids

2010-08-09T23:39:00.012-07:00

Global Journey: Scene IX

The last bowl.

Nothing more, nothing less. Just một bát Northern Style Phở Bò. They keep the broth strategically sugar-free up here, and that big mound of basil and culantro is noticeably absent. Focus on the bEEf. Probably the national dish of Việt Nam, yet during all my time here I've never been much of a follower- no matter where I sampled. No doubt it's damn slurpable with its rich and salty broth, sliced scallions and chewy rice noodles. The mix of tender brisket and rare beef slices is hard to hate on, and I'm well aware the hipsters from Stockholm to Silver Lake crave them some late night PHở. For me, I'm fully content with a bowl of multi-textural Mì Quảng. Case closed.

- - -

Best Meal: Bánh Mì Xíu Mại in Cam Ranh

Worst Meal: Gà Ta Chiên (fried free-range chicken) in Mèo Vạc

Best grub regions: Phan Thiết, Cam Ranh bay, Hội An

Worst grub regions: Hà Giang, Quảng Trị, most places north of the D.M.Z.!

If you've got Facebook, peep all my other non-food related photos from the trip. Also, you can get global via twitter 'globaleats'.

Where to next?!?

Stay Erratic.

As High as it Gets

2010-07-31T09:53:00.005-07:00

Global Journey: Scene VIII

Well, the Cub scooted it's way up to the Capitol. From there I chucked it in a bus up to city of Hà Giang, to give my ass a rest. After reaching Hà Giang it was back on the 49cc again, to explore the northeast wilderness. We'll finish up in Hà Nội next time.

Heirloom cucumbers for 26 cents a kilo. Pretty sure she overcharged me.

In the north many spots are cook to order like this casual sit-down restaurant. This place had the choice or chicken or pork. He fried me up one the worst meals in some time. Female cooks from now on.

Sweet Bánh Mì.

Lemongrass marinated spicy pork leg skewers. Wood fire is the key element. Northern meats are generally more salty than in Hồ Chí Minh. A welcomed change after all that southern sugar.

Nighttime steam buns.

Thuốc Lào. A type of Vietnamese tobacco smoked bamboo-bong style. Okay, not edible but comes from plant, yo. A rush, no doubt. Here's a local with high-elevation-lung-capacity showing how it's done. Aids in digestion to boot.

Stay Vaporous.

Come On In

2010-07-27T00:09:00.014-07:00

Global Journey: Scene VII

Wandering through the impoverished, drought-stricken provinces of north-central Việt Nam. Landed in the little country town of Nghĩa Hiếu, in the province of Nghệ An. Ended up chillin' there for a few days longer than expected. Swell kuntry folk, always eager and willing to offer up a bowl or rice, or $11 prostitute. Don't worry kids, I only indulged in one of those offers. Read on.

Roadside pineapples: 10,000 VND (52 cents) a pop. Grandma (not pictured) enlightening you on why you should marry a Vietnamese girl and bring her to the states: no added charge.

I had heard good things about Lạng Sơn style roasted duck, so I was pumped to see this duck rotisserie in the middle of the Nghệ An sticks. Did this kid know his bird or what? Even spent time up in the mountain province to study the authentic ways of duck preparation and roastage. Grass fed, free-range ducks bathed in honey, fish sauce, lemongrass, fresh turmeric, sugar and vinegar- along with the imperative móc mật leaves, which are shipped direct from Lạng Sơn. After that 3 hour soak they're hardwood roasted while basted with honey for 50 minutes, chopped up and served. He sells all 40 each and every day.

These free roaming ducks (vịt cỏ) have tight flesh (remember?) but are just tender enough to enjoy. Even my Mama, infamous for her perpetual revulsion of duck dishes would give this honey-basted-leanest-bird-not-named-turkey a shot. Yeah, I polished it off clean. 80.000 VND ($4.17) per.

My second night in Nghệ An, some neighbors invited me for dinner. After dinner they invited me for lunch the following day. As is the custom in Việt Nam, the invitations will continue until you either leave town or impregnate the 3rd cousin. Anyway, the mother and I made plans to hit up the market the following morning. I'd pick up the tab is she put together a scrumptious mid-day meal. Here she is with her favorite swine seller, who also serves up a damn accurate volleyball lob.

Cooking up a nice lil' bean sprout, spring onion and beef stir-fry. Not sure what the hat's for, could be a leak.

Sweet caramelized shrimp (tôm rim), shell on of course; boiled veggies, that beef and bean sprout stir-fry along with sweet and sour pork {#1} (sườn xào chua ngọt). Beers to wash it down. Delish.

Stay Cross-Legged.

One country. Divided?

2010-07-19T20:54:00.015-07:00

Global Journey: Scene VI

Bắt bẻ (overly critical). Keo kiệt (stingy). Hay lý sự (argumentative). Ích kỷ (selfish). Không vui (no fun). Some words used by Southern/Central Vietnamese when I asked them what they thought of Northerners. Some told me that Northerners speak sweetly but on the inside it's all lies. Other folks fear them for their violent ways, citing rampant gang activity in Hải Phòng city. Everyone had something to say about the Northerners, nothing the least bit positive. 35 years after the war's end, bitter feelings remain. Perhaps it's just two different cultures, misunderstanding each other. Either way, looking forward to crossing the D.M.Z. and forming my own opinion. Follow me...

On the way let's stop for lunch in Huế for one of my favorites, cơm hến. Think Korean Bi Bim Bop injected with Southeast Asian Golden Triangle sourced Heroin. Maybe it's the mixture of chilis with the pungency of fermented shrimp paste. Or the way the crispy fried pork skins pop like rice crispies when you spoon the earthy mussel broth on top to soften the rice. Or the paper-thin wisps of banana flower and buttery peanuts that push this bowl to tropical extremes. One bite. Infinite flavors. So now you know.

Stay Opinionated.

Centripetal Force

2010-07-13T19:37:00.020-07:00

Global Journey: Scene V

Chè is a term for a family of sweet and icy deserts. Black, yellow, red or mung beans, coconut milk, durian, agar-agar jelly, tapioca balls stuffed with coconut shavings and so on.... Today it’s chopped up Hội An corn in a sweet and goey mucus-like solution- a.k.a. Chè Bắp.

From now on I'm wrapping all Christmas gifts in banana leaves. Al Gore never thought of that.

Open up your gift and you've got a steamed sticky rice paste stuffed with mung bean paste. Call it bánh ít lá gai.

A laborious process no doubt, but one will run you just about 5.3 ¢ [1.000 VND].

Hến Trộn a.k.a. hến xào. Nearly microscopic river mussels are stir-fried and mixed with onions, chilies, rau răm and topped with peanuts. The meaty mixture is scooped up with crispy rice crackers and downed. These hến are harvested from the nearby rivers, no dirty fish farms up in here. Big ups to the ravenous couple for introducing me to this dish back in the day. One of my favorites in all of Asia.

Stroll over to the streetside stall of Cao Lầu Tý where many a grandma, grandson and uncle get their grub switched ON.

Thick rice flour ash-soaked noodles mixed with slices of roast pork and pork-fat crisped croutons. One of secrets lies in the local well water used. I don't dare ask more.

Bánh Đập. Steamed sheets of fresh paper are sandwiched between a willing pair of grilled rice crackers. The combination is dipped in a type of mắm- fermented fish paste that makes the standard nước mắm smells like petunias. Yet another resourceful creation combining rice with rice- from the country that ranks #2 in the world in per-capita rice consumption [trailing Burma].

Actually ate this one outside of Hội An but central Việt Nam style cơm gà chicken rice can be found all around Quảng Nam from Tam Kỳ to Đà Nẵng. The free range chicken is key. Vietnamese like their chicken a bit more fibrous than most westerners. As a cycle dude told me the other day: Western girls have bodies like gà công nghiệp - industrial chickens with soft and saggy flesh, while Vietnamese women are like gà chặt or gà ta- free roaming chickens with tight breast and asses. Feelin' THAT.

Stay Unshackled.

Cub's still rolling...

2010-07-03T00:34:00.010-07:00

Global Journey: Scene IV

Kẹo Gương. Malt. Peanuts. Sesame. Sort of like peanut brittle without the butter. Have fun picking off your teeth for the next hour.

Highway lunch stop standard set. This time it's fried pork skins, omelet, green beans, tofu, a grilled pork chop, fresh greens and a light soup (canh). This is what $1 (or less) buys you in Việt Nam. I'm not complaining.

A bowl of Cá Bống Kho. This is a southern style way of preparing food, with the caramelized sugar and fish sauce- but using a local river fish called Cá Bống (Goby). Anything kho is super flavorful, I could drink that sauce for brekkie. Have plenty of aquatics on hand, as kho dishes are infamous dehydrators with all that nước mắm.

Don (read: yawn). This is a relatively unknown dish outside of Quảng Ngãi. My Vietnamese friends didn't even know what the hell I was talking about. In fact, someone just introduced me to this dish less than a month ago down in Hồ Chí. Super tiny river shellfish in a broth with green onions. Super mild, super light - staying true.

Everyone kept telling me you need to eat don with Hột Vịt Lộn for the ultimate experience, and I like experiences. On the outside, Hột Vịt Lộn looks like an ordinary egg. Crack it open you'll realize this egg ain't no bacon sidekick. Inside lies a partially developed duck embryo. Peep those varicose veins, yo. Hột Vịt Lộn eggs are available at different stages of 'development'- mine was a rather young fetus whose bones hadn't materialized quite yet. Still spooned up some slimy baby innards, though. I'm not usually a fan of the infantile type, but unlike some of my ex's I could stomach this one. 14 grams of protein.

NGON. BỔ. RẺ.

Stay Tuned.

Bình there Dịnh That.

2010-06-30T23:27:00.007-07:00

Global Journey: Scene III

Continuing my way up the central coast, where the beaches are tasty and the folks humble and hardworking. Up past Nha Trang, Phú Yen Province and into the beach city of Qui Nhơn.

Bún Chả Cá {Qui Nhơn}

When you're near the beach you know fish'll be up in the mix- and when you can't sell that fish..make some fried fish paste {chả cá}! The fish flesh is scraped away from the bones, mashed up and mixed with salt, pepper, and fish sauce- then fried. Here we see sliced chả cá featured with thin rice noodles {bún} and veggies in a soup Qui Nhơn residents eat at all hours of the day. As per usual, dunk the mound of fresh veggies {bean sprouts, thai basil, banana flower} in your steaming broth for an extra digestive boost.

*Global Lingo Tip*
Make sure you take note of the local accents here in the central- as they get funky. đi về (return, go back) morphs into đi dìa and mười (ten) turns into something like mừ if you get country enough.

Stay tò mò.

King mì.

2010-06-29T05:08:00.011-07:00

Global Journey: Scene II

I'll unabashedly pronounce most bánh mì's in Hồ Chí Minh are a let down. I'm always on the lookout for new spots, and sample willingly- but there are next to none that wow me. To be honest sometimes I crave a bánh mì from my joint back in Southern Cali. Probably the only thing I miss in the Valley.

Since the fillings are generally of similar taste and quality- there are two things that set a great bánh mì apart from a standard one: 1) The special fatty sauce & 2) The loaves. You can't have a good Bánh Mì with a mediocre roll. Most of the time the rolls in Sài Gòn and soft and pretty much wilt with every passing minute in the tropical fury. A hot roll fresh outta the oven can never be too bad, but I'm looking for a crispy crust and pillowy center. I'm looking for Bánh Ecstasì. Took me two years...but I got it.

Let me introduce you to the bánh mì that has the power to changes lives, rekindle once-failed romances, lay weapons down to rest and put an end to Siberian tiger poaching. Do you believe?

Say what's up to Hạnh and Hà. They've been peddling sandos from this stand for 13 years. They go through about 600 {!!!} loaves a day, and with the 3¢ of profit (500-700 Đ) they take in from each sell it's enough to put their kids through school and fill all the bellies with rice. See up there next to the scale? Yea, that's a tellie. This is a bánh mì stand that does call-in orders. Poppin.

Business Card.

The fillings are super fresh, equally proportioned and of course, tasty. I get a xíu mại (pork meatball) & chả lụa combo. The bread is warm and crisp after a quick toast in their charcoal oven. A special pork-fat sauce [lower right] is ladled in each loaf that just straight takes it over the top.

My loaf, brimming with chà bông (dried pork 'floss') and shredded scallions. Unreal. Yet real. Get yours.

Stay Legendary.

Yes, you canh.

2010-06-24T00:42:00.015-07:00

Global Journey: Scene I

After a couple nights in Phan Thiết, I'm back in Cam Ranh. This place is golden- as you already know. I just might have found the very best Bánh Mì..ever. More on that soon, but for now lets get raw wit' it. My friends here know all the spots of course, so I'm just enjoying the ride. Next stop: Tiết Canh Vịt.

Right here we got a plate of raw duck's blood- chilled a touch for firmness. Chopped-up almost identifiable pieces of duck meat are thrown in, along with basil, rau răm, peanuts and crispy bánh tráng (grilled rice cracker). The blood is pleasantly mild- the herbs and onions provide most of the flavor. Grub for the soul! 7.ooo VND [37¢] per plate.

Stay Crude.

Head North Youngin', Head North.

2010-06-19T17:00:00.005-07:00

This kid's packing up and heading out.

Global™ Journey from the southern megalopolis of Hồ Chí Minh up to Hà Nội, the capitol city.

Is it doable? Check the mode of transport yo.

1981 Honda SuperCub50. SOHC 49cc 4-Stroke air cooled engine. 3.9 HP [@7,000 RPM]. Fuel Capacity: 1.1 Gallon. Top Speed: ~42 mph. Loves doubters.

Like most of the peeps residing within, Việt Nam is quite the slender one [just 31 miles wide at her skinniest]. The lanky, sprawling geographical layout along with the sluggish traveling speeds via the national highway creates a misleading illusion as to the actual size of this country.

For example, a trip to the southern beach destination Nha Trang takes a good 9 hours via bus [& infinitely longer via Cub]- yet it's only around 500 km [310 miles] from Sài Gòn, and barely more than 1/4 of the way up to Hà Nội. In terms of land mass, Việt Nam isn't even 80% of the size of California, yet packs in 87 million folks. You thought the west coast was crowded.

The good news [for road-trippers] is that most people are crammed into the big cities; hundreds of thousands flock to Hồ Chí Minh from the countryside looking for work. Ask the cute yet cunning 19-year old waitress {Cần Thơ, Bến Tre...95% Gái Miền Tây} or hardworking motorbike repairman [Quảng Ngãi] about their hometowns and you'll understand. Head outside the cement cluster and there's plenty of room to breath. My trip should be about 1,955 Km [1,214 Mi]..before detours. Click for an enlarged version of the detailed itinerary.

Of course I'll be taste-testing a potpourri of provincial specialties during the non-religious pilgrimage, so keep on the lookout for upcoming global posts dissecting those very dishes. 'Nuff said for now, time to hit the quốc lộ. Saddle up.

Stay Mobile.

Cháo Down on some pig parts

2010-06-13T03:23:00.008-07:00

Like so many other Chinese originated dishes, cháo (rice porridge) is a big hit in Nam and found most everywhere. A sackload of different varieties of this daybreak gruel are on tap, like lươn (eel), vịt (duck), huyết (blood cockles), mực (squid) and even lá dứa (pandan flavored). Usually eaten for breakfast, tonight I'm hitting up an alleyway in District One for some evening cháo lòng. Get up.

Hẻm [alley] 152 off of Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai. From around 3 - 9 p.m.

Sure it's not the prettiest bowl of brownish rice slop you've ever rested your eyes on...mà miễn là ngon. Coagulated pig's blood, pig cartilage, pig heart, pig intestines, pig liver, pig blood-sausage, and pig tongue. Did I miss anything? Don't matta'. You'll be too busy slurpin' that broth clean outta the bowl to try and analyze which organ is which. The broth is pure pig stock richness, of course. The Chinese-style donuts [Giò cháo quẩy] give a little crisp texture and shredded ginger is provided for...ziiiiiing. Grubable for sure- well worth the 18.000 per.

Stay Ngon.

Does Size Matter?

2010-06-07T22:41:00.008-07:00

Sometimes you find yourself craving 'đồ ăn tây' [western grub] but don't wanna make the trek into the citAY centre. What's a burger-craving American to do, yo? Scoot down Bắc Hải street to your local sidewalk-burger-fry-up. What?! Yeah.

Cali has the taco truck, Hồ Chí Minh City has the three wheeled burger patty express. Instead of char-grilled your patty is freshly fried up in a pan of lukewarm oil. Instead of pickles [mắc] , you get cucumbers [rẺ lắm]. Instead of a 1/3 pound patty: 1.5 ounces. That's probably even a stretch.

They keep the prices reasonable [giá bình dân] , which you have to respect. As you can see, the menu doesn't just stick to beef but also features chicken and fish patties, veggies burgers and french fries.

As for the actual patty itself, it's nothing to lust over but that underlying charm shines through. The super flyweight patty make Calista Flockhart look chunky, and it probably won't suffice as a full meal for most folks over 45kg. At the same time this is a clear example of why Asian's B.M.I. cannot compete with the U.S. I mean, just check out what we snack on when hunger calls. Sadly, the young Vietnamese who can afford KFC and Pizza Hut are getting tubbier by the day...and the opening of 25 Carl's Jr. joints in the near future won't help matters. Keep it traditional Việt Nam, you don't wanna follow our recipe for obesity.

Stay Slender.

Back in Town [2 of 2]

2010-05-26T21:01:00.019-07:00

The grubbing continues..

Melaka.

Roti Canai. Freshly tossed and griddle fried dough. Another popular breakfast for Malaysians. The bread is soft, stretchable and crispy on the outside. I'd start my mornings with a snack like this any damn day. Truth.

Get this kid some braces. Market in Kampung Baru district of K.L. , home to fabulous Malay grub like..

..Nasi Campur. Just your basic pick-and-choose rice set-up. 'Cept no Pork! No silverware provided- just go ahead and scoop it up with your right hand. Tons of tasty local eateries can be found on Jalan Raja Alang, close to the mosque.

Bak Kut Teh. Aromatic bubbling pot of pork parts. Star anise, cloves, cinnamon, fennel seeds simmer with the swine and mushrooms for an earthy bowl of wake-me-up.

Cendol. Fresh coconut milk with jellies, beans and shaved ice. Perfect for those 95 degree afternoons.

Chinese pastries on Jonker Street. Flaky.

Meal of the trip right here. Charcoal wok-fired Hokkien Char Mee. This is a Kuala Lumpur exclusive so I hit up Mei Yen restaurant in Taman Paramount for a taste. I got there around 6 p.m. when the restaurant opened and was informed by another patron that the 'master' had not yet arrived and it was worth waiting another 1/2 hour or so to get the 'masters' Hokkien Mee. All I got is time, baby.

Fresh, fat and chewy egg noodles fried up with shrimp, squid, pork and and thick soy. The most important element, however is the rendered pork fat for frying the dish- giving it the utmost unctuous nature. No doubt the plate has the power to stuff up your coronaries in one sitting, but you'd die with smile. Pure sin. Don't forget about the crunchy fat bits they throw in the mix.

Dude's been stir-frying since the 70's.

Fittingly finished off the trip with a 4 a.m. airport McMeal. I was McCurious aight? First McBurger in almost a McDecade. Hit up the McToilet a few too many times after, so I think I'm good for another 10 years.

Also, check me out 1,2. Here's a lil' interview I did for British website qype.com.

Stay McLocal.

Back in Town

2010-05-26T02:43:00.013-07:00

Thrilled to be back in one my favorite countries for ingesting and digesting- even if only for a few days.

You can't talk Malay cuisine without speaking the language of Nasi Lemak. It's how they do brekkie in these parts. Rice cooked with coconut milk and pandan leaves, served with peanuts, fried anchovies, a hard-boiled egg, cucumbers and sambal belacan.

Sambal Belacan -> Chili, Lime, Sugar, Belacan (dried shrimp paste).

Then I bought my new camera. [Canon EOS 550d {Rebel T2i} ]. PumpEd with a capitol GLOBAL.

Satay Celup at the famous Capitol Satay in Melaka. I love the concept; a hot pot of chili-peanut sauce to cook your various skewers.

...but the meat didn't really absorb the flavor of the sauce and the tofu and veggies just got soggified. Hype - > Overrated! Give me char-grilled sate kambing instead.

Dry-style Pan Mee. One of many Chinese style dishes that made their way to Malaysia. Chinese total 26% of the nearly 28 million Malays.

They just plain know how to handle the wok. Sit back and let them go to work.

Char Kway Teow. Not as global as the rendition I grubbed up in Penang, but those soy stir-fried rice noodles were still mightily noshable.

Nynona Laksa. One of several Peranakan-style dishes found in Malacca.

- Baba Nyonya or Peranakan are terms used for descendants of folks who immigrated from China back in the 15th and 16th century. Most came from the Fujian province of China and settled along the Malacca Strait (mainly in Penang, Malacca and Singapore).

Assorted Indian fried treats on the streets of Brickfields. A bag full ran me 2.00 RN [ .60 ¢ ].

Easy child we ain't finished dining yet. Hold tight for round 2, with more noodles 'n sauces 'n such.

Stay SLR.

Yah De Yah

2010-05-16T08:00:00.008-07:00

While Vietnam doesn't play ball in the same league as neighboring Thailand, Malaysia or India when it comes to creativity and selection of curries, they still bat a respectable .270 and display the ability to come through with the clutch sacrifice squeeze. Tonight I was just looking to move the runners so in stepped pinch hitter Cà Ri Dê (Goat Curry).

Here's a well known spot [ Cà ri dê Musa ] couple fellow food enthusiast Vietnamese teachers introduced me to down in district 5 in an alley off Sư Vạn Hạnh near Hùng Vương. The menu is large but make no mistake, peeps flock for the GoAt.

This back alley joint gets continually more jam-packed with hungry Vietnamese of all kinds as the stew cooks deeper into the night- resulting in even softer goat muscles fibers.

A bowl of juicy and super tender goat served straight up without the usual veggies and herbs. Meat-Sauce-Mouth. Dunk some bread in that spiced up stew and expedite the digestive process with an icy one.

Now you got a bit of Dê in you. Ladies, watch out.

Stay Billy.

Enter the Market

2010-05-13T23:43:00.009-07:00

Recent article I wrote for Ho Chi Minh based Asia Life magazine. This month's edition is the Annual food issue, so I did my best to contribute some globality.

A bit watered down after the editors got their hands on it but what cha gonna do? I describe the frenetic and intimidating nature of a local Vietnamese market. Full issue can be downloaded here.

Stay Uncensored.

30 tháng 4

2010-05-02T19:20:00.019-07:00

{ Phan Thiết }

35 years after the Fall of Saigon, I'm rather ironically celebrating the 'National Holiday' in the southern coastal getaway town of Phan Thiết for sun, shells and brews. First-rate merrymaking as always.

Grilling up Sò điệp (Scallops).

Packed nightly with snail lovers.

Răng mực = Squid Teeth. Anyone know the actual part of the squid I was eating since I'm rather certain they don't have teeth?!? Either way, whatever little morsels I was grubbing on were tasty- especially the batter fried buns (chiên bột).

Dunk that Miền Trung style (Central Việt Nam) squid/pork/shrimp stuffed Bánh xèo into a bath of sweet fish sauce with fresh greens. It don't get no beTTuh.

Mì Quảng = Phan Thiết genre. A bit wetter than the noodles found in Đà Nẵng. This joint mixed both egg and rice noodles for a tantalizing sensory overload. Oh yeah- that's a swine leg [giò heo] sitting on top and it's damn toothpick tender.

Brews = Compulsory. Ice = Vital.

The daily grind. But for how long? All actions have consequences.

Stay Aware.

Down Home Country Folk.

2010-04-24T19:49:00.014-07:00

Sometimes a little home style is all you need- even if you're approX. 7,809 miles from your original crib. Here's a little guesthouse situated on Hồ cốc beach, about 120 km up the coast from Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. What this spot lacks in basic western conveniences (HBO, sauna, heated toilet seats, Alaskan crab leg buffet, electricity, drinkable water..) it makes up for in rustic charm. A sort of charm you don't fully recognize after only your first visit when leaving with no less than 27 mosquito bites on your backside. Naw, I think a return visit is required to fully feel the love that family spots like this provide. I took a weekend trip out here back in November..and now I'm blogging about it.

Don't let the 1 star looks fool ya. 5 star charisma.

No set-in-stone menu here, but the husband and wife couple here will ask you what it is you're hankering for, then scoot off to the market to pick up the goods. This kid already knows what he wants.

Tonight's dinner is Cá sốt cà chua, or fish with a tomato sauce. Start with a full flavored fish like mackerel and chop it up into steak portions. In Việt Nam, they don't do those dainty, boneless fillet cuts. The skin and bone are left on, which provides maximum flavor. No comparison! Don't even argue.

After the fish is fried to a golden brown, it's combined with a tangy sauce of fresh tomatoes, scallions, garlic, sugar, fish sauce and M.S.gizzle

In Nam, everyone has one of these tabletop gas cookers. Oven-cooked dishes (with the exception of baked goods like breads and pastries) are virtually non-existent in Vietnamese cuisine. Just slap a lip on the pan...there's ur damn oven.

A finished plate of Cá sốt cà chua: sweet, salty and sour with a little KICK from the fresh scallions. Grub with a side of Rau Muống Xào Tỏi (stir-fried morning glory with garlic: A northern Việt Nam specialty). Don't forget to spoon that sauce over your rice; all smiles after that.

Vietnamese style beach play time: No swimsuit necessary!!

Stay Saucy.

Is it a SINH..

2010-04-11T08:51:00.009-07:00

..to enjoy an evening mango fruit shake to cleanse your body of prior alcoholic saturation? You know you're in Nam when the carrot juice dude parks outside a local watering hole at 11 p.m. Even the most opulent of clubs serve up the mandatory fruit plate to V.I.P. customers alongside their $120 'look at me' bottles of Belvedere. Fruits just juice their way into the lifestyle over here.

Tonight I went for a detoxifying mango smoothie (Sinh tố xoài). Other options include Dâu (strawberry), bơ (avocado), Mãng cầu xiêm (soursop), Hồng xiêm (sapodilla) and Cà chua (tomato). They do it up a bit different than Jamba Juice out here- like with coffee they add a generous dollop [or two] of condensed milk along with a couple spoonfulls of sugar to mix with your selected fruit ['cause fruit isn't sweet!]. Blend it up with ice and you're ready to gulp. The condensed milk gives it a richness that teeters the line between sweet and over-the-tOp. These days I rarely slurp on Sinh tố, having burned out back in early 2oo9 from a Lactose O.D. Still, it's a nice occasional blast of fruity flavor when the sweet-tooth hollers.

Here's a short observatory vid. in front of a neighborhood Quán nhậu (boozing restaurant).

I swear this clip isn't from 1978. That's just Nam. That's just how they do. Look out for the mobile sand-roasted chestnut peddler (Hạt dẻ)!

Stay Smooth.

N*m in a bag.

2010-04-03T03:41:00.010-07:00

This kid's been noshing on Bánh tráng trộn since the yester-years, but it's time to officially christen this bag of jewels with the long overdue global-stamp of approval. Snack of the year? No doubt. I reach for a bag of B.T.T. (mixed rice-paper salad) when my tummy's just empty enough for a bit of sustenance- but not quite starved enough for 1/2 kilo of steamed kernels.

Rollcall: Clockwise from bottom left; dried shrimp, crispy fried onions, peanuts, salt and pulverized dried shrimp, rau răm (Vietnamese coriander), quail eggs, chili oil, onion infused oil and dried beef. On the top in the yellow basket is shredded green mango with a squirt bottle to attain adequate saturation levels. Got all that? The ingredients vary between sellers- other options I've seen: scallion oil, tamarind sauce, deep-fried quail eggs, spicy shredded dried beef..the list goes on.

Besides the Bánh tráng trộn option, where the aforementioned ingredients are mixed with shredded rice paper, you can also opt for the essence of Vietnam rolled up in a neat little package; Bánh tráng cuốn. Unlike the steamed fresh rice-paper rolls Bánh Cuốn, these rolls use dried rice paper which is a bit odd to chew on if you're a virgin to it.

Global Tip (for Bánh tráng trộn): Wait about 20 seconds to let the sauce and ingredients soften the paper- but eat within 5 minutes or you've got straight mush on your sticks of chop.

This is Việt Nam in a bag. You just can't doubt that. All the top players are in attendance. You've got your salty dried seafood representing the endless coastline, bright, fresh herbs that play a part in almost every Vietnamese dish, the sweet and sour mangoes hailing from the lush Mekong Delta and just enough heat from the chilies to let you know your heart's still beating. The most unconventionally spectacular dish this side of Sông Cửu Long.

A great Bánh tráng trộn can be found at Hồ Bơi Nguyễn Tri Phương (Nguyễn Tri Phương Swimming Pool on Đồng Nai street, Cư Xá Bắc Hải, D. 10). Only 5.000 a bag.

Stay Motley.

Food? On the streets? Where?!?

2010-03-19T11:10:00.018-07:00

Here's a recent article on the abundance of grub on the streets of Saigon by the New York Times. Yeah, no shit. Give it a read, though. While I feel like there's many better options for more authentic 'local' food the recommended 'Cơm niêu', I do agree that the international dining options puts out disappointing performances way too often. Let me expand on that thought...

9th floor overhead shot of a Hủ tiếu cart setting up shop in a hẻm (alleyway). Note the impatient chick in the yellow shirt looking over for her bowl of noodles. Yeah, I see you.

Example: I ordered a 'Mediterranean Bruschetta' appetizer the other night at Skewers restaurant in District One. What came out was a small mound of diced beets, tomatoes and zucchini with cilantro (really?) and a splash of extra-V and balsamic over a warmed slice of wheat bread. Hardly memorable and ridiculously inexpensive to make considering the cost of veggies in Vietnam. I'd estimate the appetizer's cost to the restaurant [raw material] at 12.000 VND (60 cents) yet they decided on setting the price at 95,000 VND. A ridiculous mark-up for a unspectacular dish. So goes the story of the Ho Chi Minh 'International' food circuit. High on profit. Low on originality.

Value per (thousand) dong = inexplicable at times!

Foie Gras at Reflections restaurant. Meal for two: ~1.300.000 VND (~$68)

Other Asian cuisines are well represented but when you venture outside of the continent it gets a bit rough. I really like Black Cat for burgers and Xu or Reflections for a little flash although usually I leave 'International' restaurant counting the amount of local meals I could have ate for the same price. 'So that meal was about 52 plates of pork and rice and I'm not even satisfied. FML.' Goes without saying I'm a bit weary when it comes to trying out new places in D1 these days.

Nighttime Hủ tiếu cart. 5.000 per bowl (27 ¢).

A few places I've tried around D1 (out of $$$ and ****)

Square One $$$ *** 1/2
Xu $$$ *** 1/2
Kabin $$ *** 1/2
Qing $$ ***
The Black Cat $$ ***
Pacharan $$$ ***
Golden Elephant $$ ***
Seoul House $$ ***
Ohan $$ ***
Reflections $$$ ***
Mumtaz $$ ***
Zan-Zi-Bar $$$ ***
Tandoor $$ ***
K-Cafe Sushi $$ ***
Scoozi $$ ** 1/2
Texas BBQ $$ ** 1/2
Kuru-Kuru $$ **
Byblos $$ **
Halal@Saigon $ **
La Habana $$ **
Hostaria $$ **
Skewers $$$ **
Gringos $ **
Sushi Bar $$ **
Ganesh $$ **
Cepage $$ **
Dae Jang Geum $$ **
Ashoka $$ **
Au Parc $$ *1/2
Mexico Lindo $ *

Any other Sài Gòn residents have anything to say about the international dining scene? Am I missing something?

Stay Bona Fide.

Stuff me, Fry me.

2010-03-04T05:12:00.015-08:00

Looks like something out of the high times recipe section but I assure this is also an actual snack in Việt Nam. I'm a big fan of chewy rice buns, but I'm not too keen on the Vietnamese style filled with quail eggs and a nearly grotesque amount of ground pork. Too much pig.

Note the grease stains on the paper bag. That's no accident. Bánh bao chiên was born to please, and it's not worried about your waistline.

Rip it open and find something different from your usual Vietnamese 'Bánh bao'. This little oil-dipped bun's stuffed with shredded chicken, pork and mushrooms- with a palatable proportion of each. The dough is softy and plush on the inside and just a bit crisp on the outside with a golden tan that approaches Valentino Garavani status. Look for them at the big fry shop on Nguyễn Trãi street in D1, near Trần Đình Xu. 20.000 VND.

Ngon ghê nhưng mà bây giờ là Bánh bao này có mắc hơn năm trước. Hai chục một cái? Giá giống như bên Mỹ!

Stay Stuffed.

Diary of a Foodie

2010-02-23T00:20:00.000-08:00

The now defunct Gourmet Magazine has an interesting, yet relatively unknown (compared to Bourdain, I guess) TV series called 'Diary of a Foodie'. This particular episode covers a bit about Việt Nam. Actually a pretty decent watch. Up until now on this blog it's been almost entirely food profiles, reviews and reactions, but I figure it's time to branch out a bit and touch on all things edible and satisfying. All in the name of globality.

So watch, drool, buy the plane ticket out.

Watch 'Diary of a Foodie: Vietnam: The Taste of Simplicity"

All other episodes available to watch for free on Gourmet's website or via itunes podcasts.

Stay Gourmet.

With love from Khanh Hoa..

2010-02-20T01:08:00.009-08:00

Sampling South-Central Việt Nam's Finest in the Province of Khánh Hòa. Don't expect less ya'll. This region is blessed with sleepy beaches, a cooler climate than the south, and straight off the boat fish and squid that smack you in the buds with freshness.

Vendor dishing up the savory steamed snack: 'banh nam'.

'Xôi cá'. Sticky rice with simmered anchovies. They call it breakfast. 5.000 VND

Tôm hùm nướng - Grilled lobster from Nha Trang. 900.000 VND [$48.50] per kilo [market price- restaurants charge $80/kg or more]. Hurts the wallet a touch but it's lobster, folks- if you want it you pay for it.

Wouldn't be a complete night in Việt Nam without shells. Yea it's a boat load. Ate about 50. Ask for your choice 'nướng mỡ hành' [grilled with green onions- foreground] and you'll go home happy.

'Gỏi cá'. Specialty of Cam Ranh. Raw fish slices tossed with lime, sugar, fried shallots and plenty of herbs. Wrap it up with cucumber and lettuce in a fresh rice paper roll then dip in the spicy peanut sauce made from fish stock. So 'namese about it.

Frying up 'Chả cá'- fish flesh mashed together with rice flour, black pepper and M.S.G. That oil's fresh, right? Sure! Eat Chả cá with soup or slap it in a banh mi!

Typical nhậu scene. Dipping sauce and icy brews.

Look out for this spot in 10 years. Quiet beaches aplenty - but that will change. Remember the name: Cam Ranh Bay.

Stay Bụi Đời.

Get your Chuc On

2010-02-16T09:41:00.004-08:00

Chúc mừng năm mới!

2 ~ 0 ~ 1 ~ 0

Happy New Year from the folks here in the Socialist Republic of Viet Nam. Welcome to the year of the Tiger. Be sure to eats lots of Bánh tét, a specialty food of the holidays. Grab a handful of sticky rice, fatty pork and mung beans and wrap all that goodness up inside a freshly picked banana leaf. Get your water nice and hot and boil for a good long time, maybe two Lord of the Ring's worth. After that, unwrap, slice and enjoy. Vietnamese pork and beans ya'll!! Don't forget the side of 8-day pickled scallions and carrots.

Stay Lunar.

87º Winter

2010-02-03T02:15:00.009-08:00

Sweltering February afternoons got you sluggish? Cool off with a ice-cold glass of rau má - blended Asiatic Pennywort leaves with a touch of sugar. The plant does just about everything good for the body.

Read more about it on here where it recently was crowned wellsphere.com 'Herb of the Week'. The next ginseng?

Still doubting the magic?

"The Chinese herbalist Li Ching-Yuen, who is reported to have died in 1933 at the age of 256, recommended it (pennywort) above all other herbs for prolonging life, and the famous Hindu guru Nanddo Narian revealed it to be his secret elixer at the age of 107."

I swear I don't work off commission, but it's refreshing as well. Look out for it- When.In.The.Tropics.

Stay Therapeutic.

ăn cắp !!!

2010-02-02T01:09:00.007-08:00

Looks like you gotta be a touch more attentive on seemingly deserted beaches. Unscrupulous Vietnamese may be hiding in the bush, waiting to prey on an unprotected Ba lô (backpack). Luckily for them it was stuffed with more goodies than a piñata, including my newly acquired Canon SLR, lens and a good few hundred snaps from the hauntingly beautiful South-Central coast.

Where does globaleats go from here? Rumors have been circulating around about a possible halting of production. These rumors are 100% fictional. Rest assured you can continue to vicariously indulge in the best the globe has to offer.

For now, the Canon power shot will step in like Kurt Warner [ circa. 1999 ] and do it's best to perform. It's patiently been waiting for it's chance to step up and shine, and I figure any downgrade in pixel count will have to be counteracted with a step-up in gustatory story telling. After all, here at globaleats we've always been about a complete sensory experience. You can't just see the food, you have to be the food.

Anyways, this extremely unfortunate event does not sour my view on Vietnamese people. Every country has its good and bad. I was unlucky, but I venture onward- always in search of the true definition of global.

Stay Buoyant.

Cambo' Reloaded

2010-01-15T18:00:00.010-08:00

Cambodia, 2010.

Bread.

Take your pick.

3rd World Butcher.

Chinese Influence.

Push-cart fruit.

Glazed pig.

'you buy?'

Stay Resilient.

Get all Mexi Bout It

2010-01-03T15:02:00.009-08:00

One of the majorly advantageous things about that California lifestyle is no doubt the ample supple of Taco Trucks perched on the curb. Hammered, come 3 a.m., it's definitely one of the things you're hunting for. I'd go ahead and call Tacos the State dish of California, yeah. I CHALLENGE you to find ANY friend of yours that dislikes a proper corn tortilla wrap stuffed with spicy salsa, cilantro and marinated grilled muscle fiber.

Here's one in Vallejo, chillin' on the famed Sonoma Blvd at the corner of Ohio St. It happens to be one of my favorite trucks in the bay area. You can keep your overrated S.F. Mission Mexican, I'm taking HWY 37 to V-Town.

Stroll on up and make your order.

Pastor, Carnitas and Tripas. The holy trinity.

Best Al Pastor this side of Guadelajara with a char that'll make George Hamilton jealous. Salsa, onions and cilantro- with a side of lime of course. You know the drill.

And as an added bonus for Vallejo-bound Taco fiends; approachable, elegantly-clad local ladies to chat with. Too bad they charge for any extra services.

Proper Mexican food is ridiculously tasty, yet so many regions of the world supremely F it up. Mildly frustrating, tis simply another reason to look forward to that golden state return visit.

B.T.W. For the best tacos this side of ANYWHERE, hit up Tacos El Yaqui, Rosarito Beach, Mexico. Shhh.

Stay South of the Border.

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2009-12-29T11:34:00.007-08:00

Yea, I know. Been busy stuffing myself back home for the holidays. One of many great meals back stateside.

Wild Nettles, pancetta, mushrooms, red onions & aged provolone. Gialina pizzeria. San Francisco, California. One of the cities better pies and light years ahead of any crust in Viet Nam.

Stay Resolvable.

Seoul; Faint of Liver Needn't Apply (Part 3): Fish Market Fantasies

2009-12-07T00:07:00.010-08:00

Third and final post on recapping South Korea. This one's a quickie. For my last night the host took me to the famed Noryangjin fish market. This baby is massive. 710,000 sq feet to be exact. Wholesale auctions for restaurants, along with an endless line of hawkers ready to sell you anything from the ocean. After the purchase, bring it upstairs to a restaurant and they'll turn that flounder into a respectable meal. Pass the Soju.

Tunnel on the way to the market...

..youngin' bargaining for an agreeable price..

..oh you better believe we got some head that night..

..I told you..it's ENDLESS. Didn't even attempt to make the full stroll..

..selection of raw fish and oysters. I'm pretty sure we got ripped big time on our purchase and meal. Global Tip: Bring a local or someone who speaks more than 30 words of Korean with you for bartering power. No worries.

[ 회 ] - Hoe. Minutes before a carefree fish flapping around in his tank, now a beautiful, sliced arrangement ready for soy and wasabi. The bones and head of this fish are used in a spicy stew called Maeuntang [매운탕 ].

[ 산낙지 ] - Sannakji. Live octopus seasoned with sesame oil. Make sure to give it a good chew after dipping in Ssamjang. World B. Smush with the narration and impeccable pronunciation.

..this kid had some fight left in 'im.

That's all I got for the stimulating southern peninsula of Korea. I ate some pretty good grub and some really tasty dishes, but I feel like there's clearly so much more I missed out on. This is a case where I have a sense the cuisine of the country is substantially better than what I sampled. Sure you can say that for almost any short trip you take to a new land, but you can smell it in the air here. The food culture of Korea is straight cracking. People love to snack it up, so there's no doubt unbelievable food is on offer - 24 hours a night. Cause you know it don't stop.

Again, much love and thanks to host B. 'smush' Baird for hosting and filling shot glasses whenever needed. Globaly appreciated.

Stay aquatic..

Seoul; Faint of Liver Needn't Apply (Part 2): Put it in a pot and sip it.

2009-11-22T07:09:00.014-08:00

Continuing forward with more...South Korean grub.

김치찌개 - [ Kimchi Chigae ]. Pure comfort if you ask me. A spicy lil' number of kimchi and pork in the ubiquitous black pot that 'stay's hot for hours' according to the self-proclaimed 'King of Itaewon'. True, it's always bubbling for a few minutes at your table. This is a nice winter soup to warm the ears and toes, probably wouldn't be as satisfying in 92º Saigon winters but I like what it brings to the table in colder climates.

치킨 - [ Chikin ]. You know every country has it. Korean-style fried chicken is actually getting popular in the States, look out for it. I hear the secret lies in the fry-rest-fry technique. Shh.

보신탕 - [ Bosintang ]. This was a real special bowl. Spicy broth with tender greens and shredded dog meat. It had a questionable aroma to it. Consume with a bare minimum of 5 bottles of Soju to help drown the impending guilt...which none of us remember feeling.

비빔밥 - [ Bibimbop ]. This is as simple as it gets. Bibimbop translates to 'mixed rice' and every Asian country seems to have one of these poor man's plates. Just mixed, shredded veggies [ carrots, zucchini, bean sprouts, cucumber, mushroom etc. ] with an over-easy egg slapped on top. Intermingle ingredients with chopsticks and add however much chili your lower GI tract can handle. The host proclaimed this the epitome of Korea's vast array of 'peasant food', a phrase he reiterated each and every night in between Jaegar bombs. He means that with the utmost respect, b.t.w. Korea was a dirt poor country up until recent years so the citizens learned to use what they had on hand. Somehow those rustic meals that were originally created just to get by always turn out damn delectable. Love that.

순대 - [ Sundae ]. Sort of like boiled sausage. No, actually that's what it was. This variety was stuffed with glutinous rice, wrapped in a pig intestines casing. It's on the street if you need it. Just holla.

감자탕 - [ Gamjatang ]. Another warmer-upper to get you through those nippy winters. Massive pork bones with bits of ridiculously tender meat clinging on for dear life swim around with potatoes and a mix of veggies in this spicy 'peasant' pot of love.

They really make you work for that meat. I was too hungover to put in much effort.

만두 - [ Mandoo ]. When it's late, and the digestive organs howl for a bit of satisfaction, stop by one of the endless street stalls and poke around. Mandoo will be there, patiently waiting for your attention. It's a steamed dumpling if you didn't notice. Give it your love, son.

Full yet? Leave some room for part three...fish market fantasies.

Stay resourceful.

Seoul; Faint of Liver Needn't Apply (Part 1)

2009-11-21T22:06:00.027-08:00

Seoul, South Korea. A pistol-whip whirlwind of a metropolis with a pulse like Mick Jagger and a nightlife that'll make Southeast Asia go rosy in the cheeks. Over 10 million Koreans wake up every morning in this economical powerhouse, taking part in a never-ending paper chase with unrelenting gusto. Alas, when the work bell rings at 5, make no mistake- tie's will be loosened and bottles will get emptied. It's a insomniac city of bright lights, foreign smells and hedonistic sensations. The ever-present aroma of sesame oil and chili wafts from 4 a.m. food stalls, enticing the woozy passerby to indulge. One minute you're pounding rice wine with a bubbling bowl of tender dog soup, the next you find yourself in a dusky dance club, wall to wall with night savages looking for a shot of Jaegar chased with trouble. This city does NOT sleep. Neither did I. It goes without saying that 90% of meals were either consumed mid-intoxication or wickedly hung, so apologies in advance on the less than stellar shots. I got the first round, lets commence.

We'll start off with the most famous export outta Korea after Kia™ and Kimchi- gogi gui { 고기구이 } or Korean Style Barbecue:

삼겹살 - [ Samgyeogsal ]. One of the most popular gogi gui choices. Basically uncured bacon cut nice and thick. You char these fatty strips up on a hot plate until your liking, then slice up with scissors and begin the salad stuffing process. Other popular choices of flesh include: 우삼겹 [ Usamgyeop- thinly sliced beef ], and 갈비 [ Galbi - marinated beef or pork short ribs ].

Every self respecting Korean joint will provide handful of small side dishes (Banchan) for patrons to munch on. Kimchi is standard, and for the grilling experience so are garlic slices and ssamjang- a semi-spicy chili and fermented soybean dip that's damn addicting. Just ask Phil.

Choose your banchan then wrap it all up in a lettuce or perilla leaf. Inside: a bit of rice, ssamjang, grilled (or not) kimchi, grilled garlic slices, a bit of green onion or whatever more you please. Dip in more chili sauce then stuff in your hole. Like this-->

Me expertly demonstrating the 'one bite' technique. Host Baird with the nifty camera-work.

Korean's enjoy boozing with meals, so expect 소주 [ Soju ] and beer to be present on the table at all times. Always pour your dining mate's drink, and don't you dare let that glass run empty.

Part 2 one its way, until then..

Stay Tipsy.

The Quick Snail

2009-11-17T05:38:00.006-08:00

Here's a simple 'n dirty lil' stir-fried seafood dish- ốc len xào dừa. Sea snails cooked with a coconut milk sauce and topped off with libido killer rau răm. Chase with libido enhancer Sài Gòn beer. Perfect match.

Shells so perdy you almost wanna get all fairfax and make yourself a string necklace.

Stay Oceanic.

Country Cock 'n Balls

2009-11-08T01:44:00.007-08:00

Over working in the Mekong Delta the other day, locally known as miền tây. In the countryside lots of things are different. Farming is the main (practically only?) economy, helmets are optional and fluorescent purple and orange designer knock off shirts reign supreme in the fashion world. They also eat a more 'rustic' diet, if you will. This isn't saying that Saigonese won't chow down on a fertilized duck embryo or young grilled dog ribs- but in the countryside sustenance isn't always guaranteed with such meager salaries. Not the time to be picky about your peas and carrots.

Just a little 'Bình Dân' spot serving up the local speciality of the Đồng Tháp province, Lẩu gà nòi. Lẩu is a table side hot-pot, most popularly paired with seafood. The gà nòi is a hot-tempered breed of Vietnamese chicken similar to a gamecock. They run around as they please and some varieties of gà nòi are raised for cockfighting. Just be sure to check for metal spikes before slurping down your bowl.

Your bubbling pot of cock parts and local veggies. Usually eaten with Bún (rice vermicelli), today we ate with Mì gói (instant noodles).

A nice plate of chopped up gà nòi. I really like the sprinkled fried shallot flakes on top. Shows me they really care about presentation. Anyways I'm no vet so don't ask me what all these scraps are, I just have a feeling nothing is wasted. Those white kidney-looking pair of nuggets resting on top of this mound of offal, take a guess. I told you this chicken was a male right? Well, the lady I was with kept saying 'the eggs of the male chicken'. I was thinking to myself, 'males have eggs'? I found out eventually that I was eating gamecock nuts. The flavor was like a mild pate, but the texture was a bit offensive. I liken the insides to semi-soft tofu, and when your teeth broke through the outer skin it was an experience not to dissimilar to snacking on gushers for the first time. Either way, finished 'em both, cause if you only eat one they say only one of yours will function properly. Can't be havin' that.

Stay Squeamish.

Lets Roll

2009-10-30T18:53:00.008-07:00

Most people think of gỏi cuốn (fresh Spring Rolls with shrimp and lettuce) when they think of Vietnamese cuisine. Yes, this is a good indicator of the eating culture here; light, healthy and filled with fresh vegetables and seafood - but I'm actually not a big fan of Spring Rolls. I feel there's another roll in the neighborhood that brings more of a punch to the table. His ancestors may have called China home, but today he's got his green card and makes a steady income in the socialist republic of Việt Nam.

Hi. I'm bò bía. Have you meet my sweetheart?

This snack originally derived from the Fujian province of China. There it's called Popiah and the wrapping is a thin wheat-flour 'crepe', while upon entering Việt Nam several years ago it underwent some changes at customs. The wheat flour wrap was substituted with - go figure - rice paper, and the name turned into bò bía, so it sounds all Vietnamese like. Many of the fillings changed as well.

So what's wrapped up in there? Like R-Kelly at a quinceanera, I know you're just dying to get inside. For starters, steamed strips of jicama (củ sắn), thin slices of dried Chinese sausage (lạp xưởng) - [essentially a dried form of the grilled sausages (香腸) I ate in Taiwan], baby dried shrimp (tôm khô), crushed peanuts (đậu phộng), lettuce (xa lát) and basil (rau quế). A dipping sauce of fermented soybeans called Tương accompanies the bò bía. Don't forget the fried shallots and chili pepper. There's just so much packed into this snack you can't really pin down a specific flavor, but I honestly appreciate the fishy/saltiness the dried shrimp bring. The jicama should still have a slight crunch to it, not too mushy. Send them back to the kitchen if that's the case.

How can you resist the lady's charm? bò bía can be found in the Chợ Lớn district of Hồ Chí Minh and randomly throughout the other districts.

When you don't want a meal, when you're noodled or riced out - reach for bò bía, then reach for the heavens. 1.500 - 2.500 VND a roll (8 - 14 cents).

Stay Snackable.

When in doubt, wing it..

2009-10-28T00:32:00.008-07:00

Another one of those super popular 'quán ăn' dishes that goes great with beer. In the States, chicken wings are damn near mandatory when watching football. In Việt Nam, they don't watch American football, but the boys will drown you in beer if you ask kindly. This one's called 'cánh gà chiên nước mắm', or fried chicken wings with fish sauce. You can find this dish at most all casual restaurants where liquor is served, but today I'm grubbin' the version whipped up by the cook at my work. She's got it down.

First, chicken wings are marinated in fish sauce for that salty flav, then fried until a bit crisp. After removing the wings from a the oil, a sauce is made from sugar, fish sauce, black pepper and crispy fried garlic. Toss the fried wings back in the pan and cook until the caramelized sauce glazes those wings with sticky/salty ecstasy.

A different flavor sensation than your usual American style barbecue wings but go ahead and sample. Sunday's will never be the same.

Stay impromptu.

Hail to the King

2009-10-13T03:19:00.002-07:00

ALL RISE! Say hello to the Durian, known in Việt Nam as sầu riêng.

It's the Lebron of the East! Known throughout Southeast Asia as the 'king of fruits', isn't it obvious why? The beast is covered in spikes and has a smell that bans it from subways in Singapore. Says food writer Richard Sterling:

"..its odor is best described as pig-sh*t, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away."

Chill buddy. I think most people exaggerate the odor but hey, I might just be more immune. Yeah, it's an acquired aroma, but nothing like the back end of a swine. Nevertheless, people out East appreciate the beauty of this fruit, and pay top dollar for freshly harvested Durian.

Don't F with this fruit. It can kill you. King does what it wants.

Crack open the outer shell and behold 4 to 5 compartments housing large seeds as well as the infamous flesh [edible part]. There's actually tons of varieties of King D., so you may get big or small seeds, with a flesh color ranging from pale blond (above) to bright yellow. Eat 'em all.

The texture is creamy like custard. Once in your mouth it's complexity to the fullest. The flavor is pretty much indescribable. Sort of like a velvety, rich...no words. Don't let the smell dissuade you. It's pure global within.

Stay pungent.

'Wan. Part Deux

2009-10-08T10:36:00.007-07:00

For part 2 I've decided to explore a bit of the night market scene in Taipei. These places are wildly popular with the locals. The food is inexpensive and plentiful. Maybe not a 10 on the flavor scale but you can pick and choose from a vast selection of hawkers touting their specialties with unwavering zeal- that's the beauty of Asia.

A shot at the Shilin night market food court. Straight crackin' like whip at night.

[ 蚵 ] Oysters. Hopefully killed within the week, but who knows. I survived.

Look how the sausage is bigger than her forearm, and someone just ordered four! You can see the sticky rice 'sausage' in the foreground.

[ 臭豆腐 ] Stinky Tofu. You can smell it for days. Actually quite nasty for the nostrils but a lot easier on the buds. Nothing to go Lady Gaga over. This plate had deep fried pieces with that all-too-common generic sauce. After a few days in 'wan I felt the wafts of stink just about everywhere.

It's an island. Crabs and fish 'n such although it seemed squid reigned supreme as either the favorite or the most abundant thing out of the sea.

[ 蚵仔煎 ] The famous oyster omelet. A national favorite for sure. Eggs, tapioca starch batter, oysters and greens pan fried in lard. This puppy was goopy and slimy. Not exactly my cup o' tea. Probably didn't hit up the best place, although it was filled with locals. I wanted to love it but I just, I just don't know.

[ 烤雞屁股 ] Grilled Chicken butt skewer. It's basically pure fat encased inside charred skin. Not the best piece of ass I've had but I try not to live with regrets.

So my 5 nights in Taiwan certainly didn't mean I tried everything, but I got a pretty good idea about the eating culture. Like all Asian countries, the people are extremely (overly?) proud of their food. I just wasn't feeling the love. Maybe it needs to grow on me, although my buddy Sheeze [ Taipei resident for over a 15 months ] told me he's recently loving life after a switch to Muesli for lunch everyday. What does that tell you about the food culture? I'm just saying.

In comparison with Southeast Asian cuisine (which may be an unfair comparison) I found a lot more fried dishes (especially griddle fried) and a lot less veggies. Probably explains the spare tire some of the locals sport. I'm also not a fan of these bland sauces they pour over almost every dish to 'enhance it'? I mean, drizzle me but don't drown me. I think overall the food was good enough, but nothing really smacked me in the mouth and said: "You'll think of me later."

Big ups to my host Sheeze, a.k.a. burger connoisseur. While the eats may not have always been world class, I definitely have some global memories. Much thanks for that.

留流利.

'Wan. Bring ur napkins.

2009-10-02T01:39:00.012-07:00

The kid is back from Taiwan. Time to discuss the grubness that ensued. How can you accurately describe and speak of that which is Taiwanese food? I surely can't. Which dishes are aboriginal? What's Chinese, what isn't? Feels like everything in Asia emerged from China. I won't lose any more sleep over that, but what I'll do is follow my guide and eat what the Taiwanese are eating- day in and OUt. Shall we dance?

Tasty little number here called [ 鍋貼 ] guotie. Sort of like a mix between a potstick and gyoza. Griddle fried until brown and crispy. Stuff it with veggies or pork..

..Then dip in Vil™-made concoction of garlic chili and soy.

[ 蔥油餅 ] Cong you bing. Green onion pancake with roots from China. A real popular snack in Chinese restaurants all over the globe. This bing was a bit on the salty side, but I like the concept. This island has griddle fried runnin' through it's veins.

Cong you bing's younger cousin, [ 煎餅 ], dan bing. Cuz is young but street smart, with experience in Bejing and Hong Kong before touring Taipei and beyond. Another griddle fried creation, dan bing combines a fried egg with a thin crepe. Roll it up, slice and drizzle with oyster sauce. Great for a hangover, I think.

[ 鴨飯 ] A little hole in the wall my boy Sheeze took me to. Specialized in Chinese style roast meats like chicken, duck and pork. Served up with an interested blend of dried anchovies, bamboo shoots, lightly pickled mini-cucumbers and green onions. This one'll fill you up for coins. Global stamp of approval as well.

Ducks awaiting their charred-fate.

[ 大腸包小腸 ] This is called 'small sausage wrapped in big sausage'. The inside sausage is a sweetened ground pork mixture and the surrounding 'sausage' is actually grilled sticky rice. They know how to utilize that leftover rice, no doubt.

Kid could hand pull noodles like way. Feel that dough's pain.

[ 台湾牛肉麵 ] Beef noodle soup. Could arguably be crowned the national dish of Taiwan. This spot served up a huuuuuge bowl of thick 'n chewy noodles with a mix of thinly sliced beef and lovingly braised cubes. Like a supercharged Phở without the veggies, add extra cow. I'd grub again.

Stay seated for part deux, when I explore the night-market scene of Taipei. They'll be oysters, ass and stinkiness. Not in that order.

Stay greasy.

Next Stop

2009-09-22T21:00:00.008-07:00

This kid's off to sample Taiwan...

..Check back soon for a recap of all-goodness consumed.

Stay Sovereign.

Grill my Goat

2009-09-15T20:29:00.009-07:00

Here's the quán ăn o' the night, dishin' out dê nướng (grilled goat). You're provided a plate of thin, raw goat meat slices to throw on a screaming hot cast iron plate- heated by red hot lump hardwood. Some restaurants will provide a grill grate for classic 'grilling', while others go with the iron plate- making it more of 'pan seared' goat than grilled, I guess. A plate of sliced okra is also provided.

You're bound to get some tough and nasty bits (we are in the tropics) but the flavor is usually robust enough to keep you coming back. Dip the cooked goat in the provided chili sauce and wash the whole get-go down with the obligatory Bia Sài Gòn đỏ. That's a classic evening on the pavement as far as Vietnamese are concerned.

Look for quán ăn dê nướng restaurants all around Ho Chi Minh (outside of District one), most of these restaurants usually serves Lẩu dê (goat hot pot) as well, but this kid's always had a special place in his heart for all things charred.

Stay Crispy.

Ca Binh Dan

2009-09-09T01:20:00.009-07:00

At lunchtime all across the city you'll see glass carts like this with selection of fish and meat to eat along with your plate of rice. The eating style is called cơm bình dân , or 'commoners rice' as it roughly translates. Rice for the working class. You're usually looking at a selection including: pork-stuffed tofu in a tomato sauce, fried chicken, omelets, tuna, fried mackerel, pork stewed in coconut juice..get the idea. Just pick your passion and take a seat.

Get there promptly at noon or you're looking at an empty stomach until the dinner stalls set up 'round 4 p.m.

Yeah lookie here. The ubiquitous Vietnamese 'catfish' they call Cá ba sa, this time served kho style. A real moist fish, the fat melts right into the simmering sauce of carmelized sugar and nuoc mam, with green onions and chili to provide some piquant.

Grub it with rice. Grub it with pride.

Stay Common.

Only the Vietnamese...

2009-09-05T17:50:00.006-07:00

..would keep bottles of Bordeaux on ice..

..and then continually challenge you to pound your entire goblet in one go.

"Một trăm!Một trăm!"

My thoughts: A passive aggressive way of mocking the French's snooty attitudes toward wine culture. Seeing as this occurred on Vietnamese National Day, [September 2nd 1945 was when Vietnam became independent from French rule] it all makes sense!

Or it's just the Vietnamese being Vietnamese. You gotta love that as well.

Stay oN icE.

Off the Street

2009-08-23T03:46:00.013-07:00

Every once in a while it's nice to enjoy a nice dinner out - or in, depending how you look at it. Like my Dad told me a few weeks ago via skype: "Get off the street". Okay, okay. Truth be told I've noshed at TONS of international restaurants in Hồ Chí Minh city..French, Southern Indian, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Texas BBQ, Thai, Nigerian, Lebanese, Israeli...blah blah. I've been keepin' the blogs to stricly Vietnamese commoner's fare up to this point, but globaleats has never been about stagnation. As with life..food moves forward. Don't fall behind, son.

Beyond the price factor, there is a reason the vast majority of my meals come from one trick pony vendors. The do a dish or two, and they do them well. Why would I pay 50,000 VND for Bánh cuốn in a charmless A/C spot when I can dine on a plastic stool where Mrs. Phuong's been honing her fresh rice rolls since the late 80's- for 1/3 of the price. Many of the times while dining in upscale places I finish the meal thinking..'Damn, I would've been more satisfied just going...' But there's at least one restaurant that gets it. Xu.

The menu could be described as Mediterranean dishes and techniques with a spattering of southeast Asian ingredients. I don't want to say 'fusion' because that word is so 2004. There is no fusion anymore. Experimentation with ingredients from every corner of the world is going on in restaurant kitchens all over the globe. Every day. Anyways..the end result here is delish which is all you really need to know.

Star me off with a cockie. Fresh passionfruit juice and vod. Lip-smacking.

"rau răm arancini". One of the dishes from the 'bar snacks' menu. Traditionally Italian fried aborio rice balls infused with Vietnamese coriander, rau răm.

Vietnamese pizza. Little crispy chewy disks with raw tuna and a lime dressing. Simple, yet savory.

Over to the dining table we go. Starting off with a little amusement for that ass. Spoon-sized pre-appetizer play on the Vietnamese southern-style soup 'Canh chua'. With okra slivers and the smallest shavings of fried shallots you've ever witnessed.

Seafood bisque with grilled scallops. Shrimpy, creamy. Everything you ask for in a bisque..even crumbled peanuts!

No, it's not mac'n cheese with fish fingers. We've got some zucchini risotto with a fried squash blossom and goat cheese fritter. Can you say U-n-C-T-u-O-u-S?

Just a little Muối tiêu.

A good slice of cow carcass is hard to come by domestically in Vietnam. Once you get tired of this, that is. Lets go with the Aussie rib-eye, with grilled sweet potato and curried fried okra crisps. Count it.

At the end of the night the meal for two came to about 1,380,000 VND. In simpler terms, a touch under $80 US. That's about 100 street meals. Ridiculously expensive by local standards but still a good value for a total of 4 cocktails and five plates of well-prepared grub- not done anywhere else. So there's no diner remorse tonight, just a colon that'll need cleansing in the morning.

Stay GloBaL.

Khot in the act

2009-08-14T19:39:00.011-07:00

Here's lesser known deep fried mini-pancake that hails from the southern beach town of Vũng Tàu. I stumbled upon this shop that happens to crank out these crispy disks of lovin' all day long. I came. I saw. I grubbed.

Dining materials. A (large?) basket of vegetation like salad, mint and basil which comes in handy later. Grandma said eat your greens, but this time it won't be so painful.

Each plate is filled with 8 or so rice flour based Bánh khọt. A small shrimp or two tops each cake along with a spoonful of sauteed green onions. The orange dandruff-like substance is pulverized dried shrimp.

Close up shot of the cakes immediately before ingestion. Crispy on the edges and pillowy on the inside- def. worth the 20.000 VND price tag.

Ah yes, you knew the greenery would come back into play. I like to wrap my Bánh khọt up with basil, a couple lettuce leaves and top with some shredded papaya. Then I dip it in their secret steaming hot shrimp broth.

Get khọt up in the hype, on Đồng Nai street in District 10 from the afternoons onward into the night.

Stay Global.

Open-air Evenings

2009-08-08T18:27:00.009-07:00

Smack in between slimy succulent street food and indoor, air-con restaurants lies the genre of Vietnamese eateries known simply as 'quán ăn'. At these establishments you're still sitting on plastic chairs of varying heights (ranging from 1 1/2 to 3 feet off the ground), but you have a menu to order from and a waiter or waitress who'll attend to your every need throughout the evening.

The basic 'quán ăn' usually centers around drinking, with middle-aged Vietnamese men making up the majority of the demographic. The food accompanying the drinks is mostly seafood- cooked in a no-frills fashion.

My new found love for baby mussels had me ordering none other than 'Hến Xào Xúc Bánh Đa'. A dish of stir-fried baby mussels with peanuts, sesame seeds, lemongrass and chili. You're given a large toasted rice cracker to scoop up the mussels. Just divine.

Saigon Red beer with ice cubes- an absolute necessity on a balmy evening in Southern Vietnam. A good 'quán ăn' (such as this one) will have servers constantly replacing your beer's slowly melting ice cubes with new ones- keeping it chilled to perfection.

Don't expect to sit down for dinner here without at least one slightly intoxicated diner asking you to (making you?) pound beer with him. 'một trăm' means 100 in Vietnamese but is also a call to down your icy mug in one go. Who am I to reject this friendly offer of intoxication?

On the left stands a street artist who'll sketch your mug for a very reasonable price. He actually didn't try to sell me his services but..

He did ask for my autograph. No charge buddy.

* There's a clutch of well known 'quán ăn' restaurants on Nguyễn Tri Phương street, south of Ba Tháng Hai street (District 10), although just looks for sidewalk plastic tables with groups of inebriated men cheersing every happening of the night.*

Stay GlobaL.